Wednesday, 28 August 2013

What is Overclocking? The Absolute Beginner’s Guide to Understanding How Geeks Speed Up Their PCs.


What is Overclocking? The Absolute Beginner’s Guide to Understanding How Geeks Speed Up Their PCs

overclocking
Overclocking is the action of increasing a component’s clock rate, running it at a higher speed than it was designed to run. This is usually applies to the CPU or GPU, but other components can also be overclocked.
Increasing a component’s clock rate causes it to perform more operations per second, but it also produces additional heat. Overclocking can help squeeze more performance out of your components, but they’ll often need additional cooling and care.

What is Overclocking?

Your computer’s CPU comes from the factory set to run at a certain maximum speed. If you run your CPU at that speed with proper cooling, it should perform fine without giving you any problems.
However, you’re often not limited to that CPU speed. You can increase the CPU’s speed by setting a higher clock rate or multiplier in the computer’s BIOS, forcing it to perform more operations per second.
This can speed up your CPU — and therefore speed up your computer if your computer is limited by its CPU — but the CPU will produce additional heat. It may become physically damaged if you don’t provide additional cooling, or it may be unstable and cause your computer to blue-screen or restart.

Can You Overclock?

You may not be able to overclock your CPU. Many motherboards and Intel CPUs ship with locked multipliers, preventing you from tinkering with their values and overclocking your CPU. Intel sells expensive “Extreme Edition” CPUs with unlocked multipliers, targeted at enthusiasts that want to overclock and squeeze every bit of performance out of the CPU.
If you want to build the most powerful gaming PC imaginable with a water-cooling system so you can push its hardware to the limits with overclocking, you’ll need to take this into account when you buy the components and make sure you buy overclock-friendly hardware. If you have a standard CPU, you probably won’t be able to tinker with it much.

Why You Might Want to Overclock

The advantages to overclocking are clear: You get a faster CPU that can perform more operations per second. However, overclocking has become less critical over time — where overclocking once offered a more responsive desktop and faster performance in Microsoft Office, computers have become powerful enough that most users probably won’t even notice the difference. Your computer is likely bottle-necked by other things — perhaps a mechanical hard drive, if you don’t have solid-state storage — so you may not see a noticeable performance difference most of the time.
Gamers or enthusiasts that want their hardware to run as fast as possible may still want to overclock. However, even gamers will find that modern CPUs are so fast and games are so limited by graphics cards that overclocking doesn’t work the magic it used to.

How to Overclock

Every CPU is different, and every motherboard has different BIOS options. It’s not possible to provide a guide for overclocking that will work for everyone. But we’ll try to outline the basics, anyway:
  • Ensure Your System Has Proper Cooling: Your CPU comes with a heat sink and fan from the factory, which are designed to handle the amount of heat produced at the CPU’s standard speed. Speed it up and it will produce more heat. This means that you’ll probably need additional cooling. This can be in the form of an aftermarket heat sink that can dissipate more heat and/or a more powerful CPU fan that can blow the hot air away. You’ll want to have a good amount of free space inside your computer’s case so the air can move around and eventually be blown out by the fan in your computer’s case, which may also need to be upgraded. Air flow is very important for handling heat, as just having a heat sink or CPU fan won’t help if all that hot air stays trapped inside your case.
  • Consider Water-Cooling: Hardcore overclockers may want to use a water-cooling system, which is more expensive. Water-based coolant is pumped through tubes inside of the case, where it absorbs the heat. It’s then pumped out, where the radiator expels the heat into the air outside of the case. Water-cooling is much more efficient than air-cooling.
  • Overclock in the BIOS: You’ll need to go into your computer’s BIOS and increase the CPU clock rate and/or voltage. Increase it by a small amount, then boot your computer. See if the system is stable — run a demanding benchmark like Prime 95 to simulate heavy use and monitor your computer’s temperature to make sure the cooling is good enough. If it’s stable, try increasing it a little bit more and then run another test to ensure the PC is stable. Increase the amount you’re overclocking by bit by bit until it becomes unstable or the heat is too much, then drop back down to a stable level. Overclock little by little to ensure it’s stable, don’t just increase your CPU’s speed by a large amount at once.

The Downsides

When you overclock your CPU, you’re doing something you weren’t supposed to do with it — this will often void your warranty. Your CPU’s heat will increase as you overclock. Without proper cooling — or if you just overclock too much — the CPU chip may become too hot and may become permanently damaged.
This complete hardware failure isn’t as common, but it is common for overclocking to result in an unstable system. The CPU may return incorrect results or become unstable, resulting in system errors and restarts.
If you’re overclocking, you should slowly increase the clock rate and test every new level to make sure it’s stable. You should also monitor the temperature of your CPU and ensure that you have proper cooling. The cooling that came with your CPU probably won’t cut if. If you’re using a laptop without much space for additional air flow, don’t try to overclock — there’s generally just not enough space in a laptop to handle the heat.

Overclocking Resources

If you are interested in overclocking, you’ll want to find information that applies to your specific hardware. The web is full of forums where people discuss their overclocking experiences, like Overclock.net,  and guides for specific CPUs.
Note that even CPUs of the same model aren’t completely identical. One CPU may have more tolerance for overclocking, while another CPU over the same model may not be stable at the same speeds. This all comes down to natural variations in the manufacturing process.

Overclocking can apply to phones, too. There are apps that can overclock a rooted Android smartphone. However, between the additional heat and battery life hit, using these apps is generally not a smart idea.

Technopheniac Explains: How Does BitTorrent Work?


Technopheniac Explains: How Does BitTorrent Work?

bittorrent-swarm
BitTorrent consumes 12% of total Internet traffic in North America and 36% of total traffic in the Asia-Pacific region, according to a 2012 study. It’s so popular that the new “Copyright Alert System” targets BitTorrent traffic alone.
BitTorrent may be popularly known as a method of piracy, but it isn’t just for pirates. It’s a useful, decentralized peer-to-peer protocol with significant advantages over other protocols in many situations.
This article will help you understand how the BitTorrent protocol works and why it’s not just a tool for piracy..

How BitTorrent Works

When you download a web page like this one, your computer connects to the web server and downloads the data directly from that server. Each computer that downloads the data downloads it from the web page’s central server. This is how much of the traffic on the web works.
BitTorrent is a peer-to-peer protocol, which means that the computers in a BitTorrent “swarm” (a group of computers downloading and uploading the same torrent) transfer data between each other without the need for a central server.
Traditionally, a computer joins a BitTorrent swarm by loading a .torrent file into a BitTorrent client. The BitTorrent client contacts a “tracker” specified in the .torrent file. The tracker is a special server that keeps track of the connected computers. The tracker shares their IP addresses with other BitTorrent clients in the swarm, allowing them to connect to each other.
Once connected, a BitTorrent client downloads bits of the files in the torrent in small pieces, downloading all the data it can get. Once the BitTorrent client has some data, it can then begin to upload that data to other BitTorrent clients in the swarm. In this way, everyone downloading a torrent is also uploading the same torrent. This speeds up everyone’s download speed. If 10,000 people are downloading the same file, it doesn’t put a lot of stress on a central server. Instead, each downloader contributes upload bandwidth to other downloaders, ensuring the torrent stays fast.
Importantly, BitTorrent clients never actually download files from the tracker itself. The tracker participates in the torrent only by keeping track of the BitTorrent clients connected to the swarm, not actually by downloading or uploading data.

Leechers and Seeders

Users downloading from a BitTorrent swarm are commonly referred to as “leechers” or “peers”. Users that remain connected to a BitTorrent swarm even after they’ve downloaded the complete file, contributing more of their upload bandwidth so other people can continue to download the file, are referred to as “seeders”. For a torrent to be downloadable, one seeder – who has a complete copy of all the files in the torrent – must initially join the swarm so other users can download the data. If a torrent has no seeders, it won’t be possible to download – no connected user has the complete file.
BitTorrent clients reward other clients who upload, preferring to send data to clients who contribute more upload bandwidth rather than sending data to clients who upload at a very slow speed. This speeds up download times for the swarm as a whole and rewards users who contribute more upload bandwidth.

Torrent Trackers and Trackerless Torrents

In recent times, a decentralized “trackerless” torrent system allows BitTorrent clients to communicate among each other without the need for any central servers. BitTorrent clients use distributed hash table (DHT) technology for this, with each BitTorrent client functioning as a DHT node. When you add a torrent using a “magnet link”, the DHT node contacts nearby nodes and those other nodes contact other nodes until they locate the information about the torrent.
As the DHT protocol specification says, “In effect, each peer becomes a tracker.” This means that BitTorrent clients no longer need a central server managing a swarm. Instead, BitTorrent becomes a fully decentralized peer-to-peer file transfer system.
DHT can also work alongside traditional trackers. For example, a torrent can use both DHT and a traditional tracker, which will provide redundancy in case the tracker fails.

BitTorrent Isn’t Just For Piracy

BitTorrent isn’t synonymous with piracy. Blizzard uses a custom BitTorrent client to distribute updates for its games, including World of Warcraft, StarCraft II, and Diablo 3. This helps speed up downloads for everyone by allowing people to share their upload bandwidth with others, leveraging unused bandwidth towards faster downloads for everyone. Of course, it also saves Blizzard money on their bandwidth bills.
People can use BitTorrent to distribute large files to significant numbers of people without paying for the web hosting bandwidth. A free film, music album, or game could be hosted on BitTorrent, allowing an easy, free method of distribution where the people downloading the file also help distribute it. WikiLeaks distributed data via BitTorrent, taking a significant load off their servers. Linux distributions use BitTorrent to help distribute their ISO disc images.
BitTorrent, Inc. – a company responsible for developing BitTorrent as a protocol, who also purchased and develop the popular µTorrent torrent client – is developing a variety of applications that use the BitTorrent protocol for new things via their BitTorrent Labs project. Labs experiments include a syncing application that securely synchronizes files between several computers by transferring the files directly via BitTorrent, and a BitTorrent Live experiment that uses the BitTorrent protocol to help broadcast live, streaming video, leveraging the power of BitTorrent to stream live video to large numbers of people without the current bandwidth requirements.

BitTorrent may be primarily used for piracy at the moment, as its decentralized and peer-to-peer nature are a direct response to efforts to crack down on Napster and other peer-to-peer networks with central points of failure. However, BitTorrent is a tool with legitimate uses in the present –  and many other potential uses in the future.
Image Credit: Header Image by jacobiancentral server and peer-to-peer network diagrams by Mauro Bieg on Wikipedia

Geek School: Learning Windows 7 – Networking


Geek School: Learning Windows 7 – Networking

Last time we looked at the theory behind IP addresses, subnet masks and name resolution, and we ended the installment with a practical guide on how to change your network settings. This time we take that knowledge and extend it by introducing things like DHCP, Network Locations, Ping and much more.

DHCP

The Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol is used to assign IP addresses to devices on the fly, as opposed to setting the IP address of the device manually like we did in the last article. In fact, you probably use DHCP all the time but just aren’t aware of it, for example when you take your laptop to a coffee shop that has free Wi-Fi. DHCP is useful in many scenarios. Let’s take a look at a few.
  • With the number of mobile devices we use on the rise, we find ourselves constantly needing to connect to different networks. For example, you need to connect your phone to your Wi-Fi at home and to the Wi-Fi at work. Without DHCP we would have to change the IP address on our phone every time we got home, or to work.
  • Large companies can benefit from DHCP. Can you imagine having to go around and set 1500 IP addresses, only to have the Network and Communication team come to inform you that because of a bad design decision you need to change the IP addresses on all those work stations?
DHCP uses a four step process, commonly known as DORA, to assign an IP address.
  • Discover – When you connect a DHCP enabled device to the network, it broadcasts a message to all nodes on the network (technically this is called a DHCPDiscover packet), asking if any one on the network is a DHCP server.
  • Offer – If a DHCP Server receives the DHCPDiscover packet, it looks in its scope (a fancy name for the list of addresses that it is allowed to give to devices) for an available address which it then in turn sends back to the requester in a DHCPOffer packet.
  • Request – When your device receives the DHCPOffer packet it sends a message back to the DHCP server requesting the offered address.
  • Acknowledge – The DHCP server then give your client the go ahead to use the IP address using a DHCPAck packet.
Setting up a DHCP server is beyond the scope of this series, but in order to make sure that your clients are configured to use DHCP, open the properties of your network card and confirm that it is set to obtain an IP address automatically.

APIPA (Automatic Private IP Addressing)

A Windows 7 computer that is configured to use DHCP can automatically assign itself an IP address if a DHCP server is not available. For example, this could occur on a network without a DHCP server or on a network if a DHCP server is temporarily down for maintenance.
The Internet Assigned Numbers Authority has reserved 169.254.0.0-169.254.255.255 for Automatic Private IP Addressing. As a result, APIPA provides an address that is guaranteed not to conflict with any devices on your network.
After the network adapter has been assigned an IP address, the computer can communicate with any other computer that is connected to the same networks and that is also configured for APIPA. When troubleshooting, if a DHCP enabled computer has an APIPA address it is often a sign that it can’t connect to the DHCP server.

Network Locations

The first time that you connect to a network, you must assign it a network location. This allows you to maintain different Firewall profiles and network settings for different networks. For example, you may want to be able to discover devices on your home network but you certainly don’t want to be able to discover devices connected to the Wi-Fi at McDonald’s.
There are four network locations:
  • Home Network – Assign this profile to a network when you know and trust the people and devices on the network. Network discovery is turned on for home networks, which allows you to see other computers and devices on the network and allows other network users to see your computer.
  • Work Network – Assign this profile to small office networks. Network discovery is turned on for Work Networks by default.
  • Public Network – Assign this profile to a network that you might connect to in a public place such as an internet cafe or an airports. Network discovery is turned off by default.
  • Domain Network – This is the only network profile that you can’t assign to a network. It is automatically assigned to you when you join an Active Directory domain.
Below you can see the Windows Firewall with Advanced Security MMC console, which shows you that there is a different Firewall profile for each network location.

Troubleshooting Tools

Most of our time is spent troubleshooting problems on existing network infrastructure rather than setting up new networks. The following are the command line tools you will need to get acquainted with in order to troubleshoot network connectivity effectively.

PING (Packet InterNet Groper)

If there is one tool you need to remember from this troubleshooting section, its PING. The PING utility uses ICMP echo requests to test connectivity between you and another node on the network. The syntax of the command is simply ping followed by the IP address or hostname of the node you want to test connectivity to.
ping 192.168.0.254

Tracert

We use tracert, pronounced trace root, to track network traffic as it traverses the network. It is useful for determining where the point of failure in a network lies. The syntax of the command is is simply tracert followed by the IP address or hostname of the node you want connect to.
tracert google.com

NSLookup

The NSLookup command queries a DNS server for machine name and address information. To use NSLookup type nslookup followed by a host name or IP address.

IPConfig

When used alone, IPConfig tells you basic information about your network interfaces, such as their IP address and subnet mask. However, there are a few hidden gems.
  • Using IPConfig with the /all switch shows you verbose information about your network interfaces.
  • Using IPConfig with the /release switch forces your network card to release its IP address, you would then use IPConfig with the /renew switch to request a new IP from the DHCP server.

NetStat

Netstat is used to view port information on your machine. For example, you can see if there is any application listening on a specific port. Whenever I have had to use NetStat, I have found it useful to use the –ano switch.

Homegroups

One of the cool new features in Windows 7 is the Homegroup feature that allows easy sharing of files between machines. Today we take a look at how to add a new Windows 7 machine to an existing Homegroup. To start using the Homegroup feature we need to create one first. On the the computer that is going to be hosting the Homegroup type homegroupinto the search box in the Start Menu and hit Enter.
In order create a Homegroup, you have to have your Network Location set to Home or you will get an error as shown below.
To change your network location, click on the What is a network location hyperlink and then change your network location to Home.
When the configuration is complete you will be asked what you want to share with other people in the Homegroup. Select what you want to share as needed.
Once the Homegroup has been created you will be given a password. Write this down in a safe place as you will need to enter it on the other machines for them to be able to join your Homegroup.
Now head over to the PC you want to join to the Homegroup and again type Homegroup into the Start Menu. This time click on the Join button.
Then enter the homegroup password.
That’s all there is to it. You now have two computers linked together via a Homegroup. To view member of the group and what they are sharing, open explorer and select Homegroup on the left hand side.

Homework

  • The only void, in terms of network, left to fill is IPv6. So hit up Wikipedia and find out how if differs from the IPv4 information we covered in the last lesson.

How to Easily Share Files Between Nearby Computers


How to Easily Share Files Between Nearby Computers

computers-on-desk
It’s a common situation — you have several computers near each other and you want to transfer files between them. You don’t have to pull out a USB drive, nor do you have to send them over email — there are faster, easier ways.
This is easier than it was in the past, as you don’t have to mess with any complicated Windows networking settings. There are lots of ways to share files, but we’ll cover some of the best.

Windows Homegroup

Assuming the computers are using Windows 7 or Windows 8, a Windows Homegroup is one of the easiest ways to share files between them. Windows home networking has been extremely complicated to configure in the past, but Homegroup is easy to set up. Just create a Homegroup from the Homegroup option within Windows Explorer (File Explorer on Windows 8) and you’ll get a password. Enter that password on nearby computers and they can join your Homegroup. They’ll then have access to your shared files when they’re on the same network — you can select the libraries you want to share while creating a Homegroup.
Someone using the other PC will just have to select the Homegroup option in their file manager, browse your shared files, and download them to their computer. If a guest comes over, you don’t have to do any complicated Windows networking configuration on their PC — just give them the password to the Homegroup and they can quickly join it.
Linux users can use the file-sharing features built into their Linux distribution, which should also be fairly easy to use.

Dropbox LAN Sync

Many people transfer files between computers by syncing them with a cloud storage solution like Dropbox, Google Drive, or SkyDrive. Unfortunately, this can take a while — the file will have to be uploaded to your cloud storage provider’s servers before it’s downloaded back to your other computers. This is a very silly way to do things, when you think about it — it can make syncing a large file take forever. If the computers are on the same network, why not just sync the files directly between them?
Dropbox stands out among the crowd by offering a “LAN Sync” feature that does exactly this. If two computers running Dropbox are on the same network, they’ll sync files directly between each other without the long upload and download. If you add a 1 GB file to your Dropbox, it will quickly sync to your other computer running Dropbox if it’s on the same network.
Best of all, you can share folders in your Dropbox with other people. If they are on the same LAN network as you are, they’ll also get the benefits of LAN sync. That means you can directly sync files to someone else’s computer if you’re sharing the files via Dropbox and you’re on the same network.
Of course, you must have enough space in your Dropbox account for the file, as it will be automatically uploaded to your Dropbox anyway. Whatever service you’re using, small files will sync quickly even if they must be uploaded first. Another service like SkyDrive or Google Drive isn’t a bad solution if you only want to transfer small files between computers, even without LAN sync.

USB 3.0 Drive

A USB drive is the old standard — it doesn’t work wirelessly, but it’s a fast way to transfer files. Best of all, it doesn’t require the computers to be connected or on the same network at all.
USB drives can be faster than Wi-Fi, particularly if you’ve picked up a flash drive with USB 3.0 support. Of course, you must plug the drive into USB 3.0 ports to get the speed benefit — most USB 3 ports are blue inside, so you can look at them to determine which ones are USB 3.0 ports.
However, if you have wireless hardware that supports the new 802.11ac Wi-Fi standard, a wireless transfer might be even faster. 802.11ac Wi-Fi has a theoretical maximum of 1.3 Gigabits per second (Gbps), while USB 3.0 has a theoretical maximum of 4 Gbps. Both will be significantly slower in real-world use — USB 3 will likely be faster when speed is crucial for large files, but if maximum speed isn’t necessary, modern wireless hardware may be more than fast enough.

BitTorrent Sync

If you want to keep files synchronized between your computers — ensuring you have access to the same files locally on each hard drive — you may want to try BitTorrent Sync. Unlike Dropbox LAN Sync, there’s no cloud storage component, which means there’s no limit to the amount of files you can sync. If you configure BitTorrent Sync to only work between computers on your local network, it won’t upload anything over the Internet. Unlike Windows Homegroup, BitTorrent Sync will automatically synchronize the folders you specify so you don’t have to manually copy files back and forth.
Just install BitTorrent Sync on both computers, choose folders you want to share, and generate a “secret.” Provide that secret key to other computers running BitTorrent Sync and they’ll then keep that folder in sync. This will happen entirely over your LAN if the computers are on the same LAN and your files will remain private and local.
The focus on a shared secret — not on accounts — means you can share a folder with a different person just by giving them the secret. You don’t have to mess with user accounts or sharing permissions.

There are other ways you can transfer files between computers, but these are probably the best ones. If the computers aren’t on the same network, you can create an ad-hoc wireless network or even directly connect them with an Ethernet cable to take advantage of network sharing features.

How to Connect 2 Laptops or PC via WiFi (Ad-Hoc)

How to Connect 2 Laptops or PC via WiFi (Ad-Hoc) |


1

Connect two laptops or pc through WiFi-Share files between two laptops via WiFi

If WiFi is used for transmitting & receiving of data from Internet Service Providers (ISP) then it can also be used for sharing between two Laptops or PC. It is easy to setup connection between two WiFi powered computers, you just need to follow steps below. Considering two computers as 'PC-1' & 'PC-2'.

Setup for PC-1:
  • Open 'Properties' of 'My computer'.
    My computer>Properties
  • Click on 'Computer Name' Tab, then click on 'Change' Button. Give it a name, here we are using 'PC-1'.
    My computer>Properties>
    Computer Name
  • Also change 'Workgroup', provided at the bottom of same dialog box. Give it any name as 'Technopheniac'.
    My computer>Properties>Computer Name>Workgroup
  • Now, goto 'Network Connections' & open 'Properties' of your 'Wireless Network adapter'
    Network Connections>Wireless 
    Network adapter>Properties
  • Goto 'Wireless Network' Tab & click on 'Advanced' button. Select Computer to Computer (Ad-Hoc) connection option. Now click on add preffered networks & specify details as:
    • Network name (SSID) - WiFi 
    • Network Authentication - Open
    • Data Encryption - Disabled
  • Tick this connection if its not already done.
  • Now configure TCP/IP connection settings. Goto 'General' Tab & select 'Internet protocol (TCP/IP) & click properties. Enter following values:

    • IP Address - 192.168.0.1
    • Subnet Mask - 255.255.255.0
    • Default Gateway - 192.168.0.2

  • Click 'OK' &  save the changes.
Setup for PC-2:
  • Open 'Properties' of 'My computer'.
    My computer>Properties
  • Click on 'Computer Name' Tab, then click on 'Change' Button. Give it a name, here we are using 'PC-2'.
    My computer>Properties>
    Computer Name
  • Also change 'Workgroup', provided at the bottom of same dialog box. Give it any name as 'Technopheniac'.
    My computer>Properties>Computer Name>Workgroup
  • Now, goto 'Network Connections' & open 'Properties' of your 'Wireless Network adapter'
    Network Connections>Wireless 
    Network adapter>Properties
  • Goto 'Wireless Network' Tab & click on 'Advanced' button. Select Computer to Computer (Ad-Hoc) connection option. Now click on add preffered networks & specify details as:
    • Network name (SSID) - WiFi 
    • Network Authentication - Open
    • Data Encryption - Disabled
  • Tick this connection if its not already done.
  • Now configure TCP/IP connection settings. Goto 'General' Tab & select 'Internet protocol (TCP/IP) & click properties. Enter following values:
    • IP Address - 192.168.0.2
    • Subnet Mask - 255.255.255.0
    • Default Gateway - 192.168.0.1

  • Click 'OK' &  save the changes.
Now open your Network Adapters & connect. Note that the paths for various operating system may vary, but process will be the same.

If you are having some issues with DHCP then here is 'How to start it':

  • Open 'CMD'
  • Type 'NET START DHCP'
If the problem still persists then try deleting your network & make a new with a password.

or comment in our fb group "Ultimate Tech Hub"'




How to Place Your Speakers to Maximize Your Home Theater Experience


How to Place Your Speakers to Maximize Your Home Theater Experience

2013-02-13_120508
Whether you are setting up your computer speakers or a complex home theater bundle, understanding the art and science of speaker channels and placement is the most critical step in enjoying your new sound system. Read on as we guide you through a crash course in surround sound setup.

Why Should I Care?

The other day a friend of ours was showing us his new HDTV setup and new speakers. While he had researched his HDTV purchase tirelessly, he hadn’t put much thought into the speaker setup. When it came time to set up the speakers he had purchased to go with the TV he simply plugged them in and set them all on the shelf under his new TV. The only way for that setup to be less optimal would be if the speakers were inside a nearby closet.
There is an enormous amount of energy invested in giving you a great home theater and listening experience. Everyone from speaker designers to audio engineers to foley grips—the people who add sound effects into movies—have all contributed to recreating realistic and enjoyable sound in your home.
In order to take advantage of all that energy invested in producing awesome soundtracks and movie scores, however, you have to invest a little energy of your own. Don’t worry, we have already done the research for you. Simply follow along as we explain what each speaker does and where you want to place it.

Understanding Stereo, Surround, and Audio Channels

To start our speaker placement journey, let’s first start out with the most familiar audio setup around—simple stereo sound. When you’re listening to your iPod with a pair of headphones, watching television on a set with no attached theater or speaker system, or listening to the radio, you’re experiencing audio in stereo.
Stereo audio is simply two channels of audio, one for the left speaker and one for the right speaker. It’s the most minimal setup required to provide the illusion of sound directionality and perspective for the listener.
In surround sound notation, this simple two channel setup is referred to as a 2.0 system (or, 2 channels with no subwoofer). Adding in a subwoofer changed the notation to 2.1—the .1 represents the subwoofer and the accompanying Low Frequency Effects channel that powers it.
More complex audio systems build on the 2.1 system and add additional channels to create a 360-degree envelope of sound around the listener. Unlike simple 2 channel systems that are usually driven by hardware on the main device (such as the portable music player or television set), multi-channel surround sound systems generally require a separate component known as an receiver to amplify and distribute the audio signals from the source (like the Blu-ray player or cable box) to the speakers. Current consumer audio receivers support anywhere between 5.1 to 11.2 channels of audio (five speakers with one subwoofer and eleven speakers with two subwoofers, respectively).
The vast majority of receivers currently support 5.1 and 7.1 channel surround sound—very few Blu-ray movies currently ship with audio support for anything higher than 7.1 so there is little reason for consumers to incur the expense of outfitting their homes with larger speaker systems. (If you are curious what happened to 6.1 sound, it was never widely adopted, there are very few home theaters configured for it, and even fewer 6.1 mastered media sources to use with it.)
Let’s get started with your speaker setup. We will begin with a simple 2.1 setup and move to a 7.1 setup. The tips and tricks for each setup section will build on the advice from the previous one so we strongly suggest reading straight through.

How Do I Configure Optimum Stereo (2.1) Sound?

Now that we’ve got a little terminology under out belts, let’s take a look at how we can best configure the most common speaker setups, starting with a 2.1 channel system.
Speaker layout diagrams courtesy of the Dolby Surround Sound Speaker Placement Tool.
Placing the Subwoofer: First, let’s place the subwoofer (4 in the diagram above) as it’s the simplest speaker to place. The low-frequency sound generated by the subwoofer is omnidirectional and as such you can place the subwoofer just about anywhere you want that’s convenient within the room and easy to link to the receiver.
The only caution to observe in placing the subwoofer is to avoid placing it directly into a corner or inside any sort of recessed cabinetry or architectural detail. Placing the subwoofer very close to walls and in semi-enclosed spaces changes the speaker from an omnidirectional one to a more directional one and usually results in the subwoofer sounding overpoweringly loud and boomy compared to its companion speakers. If you cannot avoid such placement we strongly suggest dialing down your subwoofer (either at the physical speaker if possible or via your receiver’s interface) to compensate.
Placing the 2 channels: In a 2.1 channel setup all audio (save for the low frequency effects generated by the subwoofer) will be produced by the left and right channels. All the sound effects, music, and dialogue from the speakers will be broadcast into the room towards you from the front.
The two primary channel speakers, left and right, should be placed roughly 3-4 feet off the center of the viewing screen (feel free to shrink these offsets if you have a particularly large screen to contend with) and at roughly ear height with the listener. Keep in mind that ear height for the listener is dependent on their height when seated—around 3.5-4 feet for most situations. You don’t need the speakers to be adjusted in height precisely for the height of the listener but they should be within 6-8 inches—any higher or lower and you will get the unsettling sense that the actors you see on the screen are throwing their voices from a higher or lower location.
In addition to positioning the speakers off to the sides of the screen and at listening height to the viewer, you want to angle the speakers inwards towards the listener (known as toe-in, as opposed to facing them toe-out or straight ahead). The ideal angle for your toe-in speakers is between 22-30 degrees. Place your speakers accordingly to create this cone-of-sound directed towards the center of the listening area (e.g. the middle seat in your couch).
A note on precision: It’s important to note that we’ are aiming for optimum home theater sound (within reason), not getting our sound system certified for an IMAX Theater. While the Internet is filled with audiophile and home theater discussion boards teeming with people obsessed with angle increments, half-inch adjustments in speaker height, and other minute details of speaker setup we firmly ascribe to belief that if it falls within the general specs the audio engineers assume a home theater will have and it sounds good to our ear then it’s good enough. Just moving your speakers to the proper position and recommended arc off the viewer will radically increase the quality of your experience.

How Do I Configure Optimum 5.1 Channel Surround Sound?

5.1 channel sound is widely regarded as the absolute minimum speaker setup required to create immersive surround sound. The 5.1 channel setup builds on the arrangement of the 2.1 setup but adds in a center channel and a left and right surround sound channel.
In order to configure a 5.1 setup, first start by placing the subwoofer and the left and right front channels (the 2 channels from the 2.1 setup outlined above). Once you have placed and angled the left and right front channel, it’s time to add in the center and surround channels.
Placing the center channel: In the 2.1 setup, the left and right front speakers are responsible for delivery of all the music, dialogue, and sound effects. In the 5.1 setup the sound delivery is spread around to the additional speakers. The center channel’s most important role is that of dialogue delivery. Since the actors are generally in frame and roughly around the center of the screen the new center channel is perfect for delivering their dialog so that the speaking sounds as if it is coming directly from the actor on screen.
The center channel should be placed dead center to the main viewing seat and should be toe-out (no angle to either the left or right). The center channel should be as close to ear height as your setup allows and can be placed either above or below the screen. If you cannot place the speaker as close to the bottom or top of the screen as you would like, you can angle the speaker up or down slightly to direct the sound more towards the listener’s head.
Placing the left and right surround sound channels: Just like the addition of the center channel offloads some of the work from the original left and right channels of the 2.1 setup, the addition of the left and right surround sound channels also spreads out the load. The surround sound channels are responsible for environmental and ambient sounds. If you are watching a concert recording, for example, the cheers and whistles of the audience would be delivered over these channels—creating the auditory illusion that you’re setting in the front row of the concert.
In order to place the left and right surround sound channels for maximum impact, you want them positioned at roughly 90-110 degrees relative to your listening position—in other words, right beside each of your ears or slightly behind them by 10-20 degrees. In addition you want to place them slightly above the head of the viewer.
If you have to compromise on the placement of the speakers because of the shape of the room or location of furniture within it, it’s better to position the surround sound channels further back and higher rather than forward and lower (it’s disorienting to have ambient background noise sound as if it is coming from in front of you instead of from the sides and background where it belongs).

How Do I Configure Optimum 7.1 Channel Surround Sound?

If a 5.1 channel system is the absolute minimum for surround sound, 7.1. channels is definitely the return-on-investment sweet spot for consumer home theater setups. While there are currently more 5.1 channel DVD and Blu-ray discs released than discrete 7.1 channels discs, more and more releases are coming out with 7.1. sound and most receivers will intelligently split the surround channels on a 5.1 mastered media source between the two additional surround sound channels in the 7.1 setup for an even more immersive experience.
To setup a 7.1 system you will first place the subwoofer, front left, right, and center channels, and the two surround sound channels (labeled 4 in the diagram below). In addition to those five channels and woofer you now have two more channels: the left and right back speakers (labeled 5).
Placing the left and right back speakers: The 7.1 setup adds even more auditory realism to your home theater experience via the addition of two more surround sound channels. These channels should be placed roughly 135-150 degrees behind the viewer and just above head level.
Again, if you have to compromise with the placement of the back speakers we recommend you move them further back, closer together, and/or higher. Doing so will affect the sound quality and envelope of sound you are striving to create less than if you moved them forward/further apart (and thus risked rear-placed sounds seeming out of place and other sounds just blending in with the left and right surround channels) or lower (ambient noise emanating from near the ground can be disorienting to the listener and would end up partially blocked by furniture).

Further Tweaks to Enhance Your Home Theater Experience

Simply placing your speakers within the rough guidelines put forth here will ensure you are getting a better sound experience than most (we’re looking at you, guy-with-all-7-channels-balanced-on-the-TV set). To take things a step further and consider the following free or nearly-free tips and tricks.
Automatic Calibration: Most of us have our home theaters in our living rooms or other multipurpose rooms—in other words, less than acoustically idea settings. While it’s possible to sit and fine tune the output of each individual speaker using only a well-trained ear and a good chunk of time, we prefer to do things the easy (and generally more accurate way).
Check the documentation that came with your receiver to see if your receive supports microphone-enhanced optimization. While each company calls their system something different—Yamaha calls their system YPAO, or Yamaha Parametric room Acoustic Optimizer, seen above—the general premise of the systems is that a small microphone is hooked up to the receiver, placed where the listener’s head would be during routine use, and then a series of tones and signals are sent over the speakers to test for things like echo, muddy sound, and other artifacts. The receiver then dynamically adjusts the speakers for these problems to produce a more balanced listening experience.
Although many automatic calibration systems allow you to take anywhere from 2-10 additional measurements from the additional seats located in the listening area, we recommend against measuring very far outside the center of the listening area—measurements on the fringe of of a large seating area or along the walls can lead to distorted results, lower-than-necessary speaker output, and diminished subwoofer response.
Adjust the Center Channel: Although we’re big fans of using the manufacturer’s automatic calibration, if you find yourself turning the volume up really loud during movies to hear the dialogue—and then getting blasted when the action scene come—it’s time to adjust your center channel.
At the receiver, increase the the output to the center channel until dialogue is clear and bright even at the lower general volume setting—then when the rocket and hand grenades go off you won’t have to duck and cover.
Upgrade Your Speaker Wire: This absolutely does not mean going out and buying some coated-with-Unicorn-blood $50 a foot wire. What this does mean is that if you’re using the super cheap noodle-thin wire that came with your equipment you’d be well served to upgrade to some thicker wire. You can order 100 feet of 16-gauge speaker wire for ten bucks.

Demo Clips/Discs: Although just about every receiver under the sun will have a built-in tone test, that’s not exactly a fun demonstration of surround sound capabilities. Sure you can calibrate your speakers with it, but you didn’t go to all the work of setting up a home theater system to listen to some beeps and boops.
For more of a wow-factor you want to check out surround sound demos included with many movies—here’s a list of all 300+ THX-certified movies that include a THX surround sound test/demo. Alternatively you can grab individual demo trailers courtesy of Demo-World.
The best demonstration, of course, is a good movie. Grab your favorite movie with a suitable number of explosions and other surround sound show stoppers and fire away. Not sure where to start in the movie selection process? Allow us to suggest some classic showing-off-the-theater clips:
  • Master and Commander–Chapter 4–High seas battles, cannon fire, creaking ships, crashing waves: there’s a reason this film is one of the most frequently used home theater demo movies. The audio quality is stellar and the surround sound application is over the top.
  • The Matrix—Chapter 31—the whole of the Matrix is a treat but the Morpheus-rescue-scene towards the end of the movie is packed with surround sound goodness.
  • U-571—Chapter 15—This submarine warfare movie is rich with sound effects and home theater enthusiasts have been using it since its DVD release in 2000.
  • The Dark Knight—Chapter 20—Batman movies are full of sound effects and the high-speed chase through Gotham City is Chapter 20 is no exception.
  • Iron Man—Chapter 10—The entire Iron Man film is packed with speaker-blasting effects, but the desert battle halfway through the movie is a feast of surround sound nuances.

Armed with the knowledge of proper speaker layout, you can easily adjust and upgrade your listening experience in under an hour or two. Have a home theater tip or trick to add to the conversation? Sound off in the comments below