Wednesday, 28 August 2013

How to Easily Share Files Between Nearby Computers


How to Easily Share Files Between Nearby Computers

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It’s a common situation — you have several computers near each other and you want to transfer files between them. You don’t have to pull out a USB drive, nor do you have to send them over email — there are faster, easier ways.
This is easier than it was in the past, as you don’t have to mess with any complicated Windows networking settings. There are lots of ways to share files, but we’ll cover some of the best.

Windows Homegroup

Assuming the computers are using Windows 7 or Windows 8, a Windows Homegroup is one of the easiest ways to share files between them. Windows home networking has been extremely complicated to configure in the past, but Homegroup is easy to set up. Just create a Homegroup from the Homegroup option within Windows Explorer (File Explorer on Windows 8) and you’ll get a password. Enter that password on nearby computers and they can join your Homegroup. They’ll then have access to your shared files when they’re on the same network — you can select the libraries you want to share while creating a Homegroup.
Someone using the other PC will just have to select the Homegroup option in their file manager, browse your shared files, and download them to their computer. If a guest comes over, you don’t have to do any complicated Windows networking configuration on their PC — just give them the password to the Homegroup and they can quickly join it.
Linux users can use the file-sharing features built into their Linux distribution, which should also be fairly easy to use.

Dropbox LAN Sync

Many people transfer files between computers by syncing them with a cloud storage solution like Dropbox, Google Drive, or SkyDrive. Unfortunately, this can take a while — the file will have to be uploaded to your cloud storage provider’s servers before it’s downloaded back to your other computers. This is a very silly way to do things, when you think about it — it can make syncing a large file take forever. If the computers are on the same network, why not just sync the files directly between them?
Dropbox stands out among the crowd by offering a “LAN Sync” feature that does exactly this. If two computers running Dropbox are on the same network, they’ll sync files directly between each other without the long upload and download. If you add a 1 GB file to your Dropbox, it will quickly sync to your other computer running Dropbox if it’s on the same network.
Best of all, you can share folders in your Dropbox with other people. If they are on the same LAN network as you are, they’ll also get the benefits of LAN sync. That means you can directly sync files to someone else’s computer if you’re sharing the files via Dropbox and you’re on the same network.
Of course, you must have enough space in your Dropbox account for the file, as it will be automatically uploaded to your Dropbox anyway. Whatever service you’re using, small files will sync quickly even if they must be uploaded first. Another service like SkyDrive or Google Drive isn’t a bad solution if you only want to transfer small files between computers, even without LAN sync.

USB 3.0 Drive

A USB drive is the old standard — it doesn’t work wirelessly, but it’s a fast way to transfer files. Best of all, it doesn’t require the computers to be connected or on the same network at all.
USB drives can be faster than Wi-Fi, particularly if you’ve picked up a flash drive with USB 3.0 support. Of course, you must plug the drive into USB 3.0 ports to get the speed benefit — most USB 3 ports are blue inside, so you can look at them to determine which ones are USB 3.0 ports.
However, if you have wireless hardware that supports the new 802.11ac Wi-Fi standard, a wireless transfer might be even faster. 802.11ac Wi-Fi has a theoretical maximum of 1.3 Gigabits per second (Gbps), while USB 3.0 has a theoretical maximum of 4 Gbps. Both will be significantly slower in real-world use — USB 3 will likely be faster when speed is crucial for large files, but if maximum speed isn’t necessary, modern wireless hardware may be more than fast enough.

BitTorrent Sync

If you want to keep files synchronized between your computers — ensuring you have access to the same files locally on each hard drive — you may want to try BitTorrent Sync. Unlike Dropbox LAN Sync, there’s no cloud storage component, which means there’s no limit to the amount of files you can sync. If you configure BitTorrent Sync to only work between computers on your local network, it won’t upload anything over the Internet. Unlike Windows Homegroup, BitTorrent Sync will automatically synchronize the folders you specify so you don’t have to manually copy files back and forth.
Just install BitTorrent Sync on both computers, choose folders you want to share, and generate a “secret.” Provide that secret key to other computers running BitTorrent Sync and they’ll then keep that folder in sync. This will happen entirely over your LAN if the computers are on the same LAN and your files will remain private and local.
The focus on a shared secret — not on accounts — means you can share a folder with a different person just by giving them the secret. You don’t have to mess with user accounts or sharing permissions.

There are other ways you can transfer files between computers, but these are probably the best ones. If the computers aren’t on the same network, you can create an ad-hoc wireless network or even directly connect them with an Ethernet cable to take advantage of network sharing features.

How to Connect 2 Laptops or PC via WiFi (Ad-Hoc)

How to Connect 2 Laptops or PC via WiFi (Ad-Hoc) |


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Connect two laptops or pc through WiFi-Share files between two laptops via WiFi

If WiFi is used for transmitting & receiving of data from Internet Service Providers (ISP) then it can also be used for sharing between two Laptops or PC. It is easy to setup connection between two WiFi powered computers, you just need to follow steps below. Considering two computers as 'PC-1' & 'PC-2'.

Setup for PC-1:
  • Open 'Properties' of 'My computer'.
    My computer>Properties
  • Click on 'Computer Name' Tab, then click on 'Change' Button. Give it a name, here we are using 'PC-1'.
    My computer>Properties>
    Computer Name
  • Also change 'Workgroup', provided at the bottom of same dialog box. Give it any name as 'Technopheniac'.
    My computer>Properties>Computer Name>Workgroup
  • Now, goto 'Network Connections' & open 'Properties' of your 'Wireless Network adapter'
    Network Connections>Wireless 
    Network adapter>Properties
  • Goto 'Wireless Network' Tab & click on 'Advanced' button. Select Computer to Computer (Ad-Hoc) connection option. Now click on add preffered networks & specify details as:
    • Network name (SSID) - WiFi 
    • Network Authentication - Open
    • Data Encryption - Disabled
  • Tick this connection if its not already done.
  • Now configure TCP/IP connection settings. Goto 'General' Tab & select 'Internet protocol (TCP/IP) & click properties. Enter following values:

    • IP Address - 192.168.0.1
    • Subnet Mask - 255.255.255.0
    • Default Gateway - 192.168.0.2

  • Click 'OK' &  save the changes.
Setup for PC-2:
  • Open 'Properties' of 'My computer'.
    My computer>Properties
  • Click on 'Computer Name' Tab, then click on 'Change' Button. Give it a name, here we are using 'PC-2'.
    My computer>Properties>
    Computer Name
  • Also change 'Workgroup', provided at the bottom of same dialog box. Give it any name as 'Technopheniac'.
    My computer>Properties>Computer Name>Workgroup
  • Now, goto 'Network Connections' & open 'Properties' of your 'Wireless Network adapter'
    Network Connections>Wireless 
    Network adapter>Properties
  • Goto 'Wireless Network' Tab & click on 'Advanced' button. Select Computer to Computer (Ad-Hoc) connection option. Now click on add preffered networks & specify details as:
    • Network name (SSID) - WiFi 
    • Network Authentication - Open
    • Data Encryption - Disabled
  • Tick this connection if its not already done.
  • Now configure TCP/IP connection settings. Goto 'General' Tab & select 'Internet protocol (TCP/IP) & click properties. Enter following values:
    • IP Address - 192.168.0.2
    • Subnet Mask - 255.255.255.0
    • Default Gateway - 192.168.0.1

  • Click 'OK' &  save the changes.
Now open your Network Adapters & connect. Note that the paths for various operating system may vary, but process will be the same.

If you are having some issues with DHCP then here is 'How to start it':

  • Open 'CMD'
  • Type 'NET START DHCP'
If the problem still persists then try deleting your network & make a new with a password.

or comment in our fb group "Ultimate Tech Hub"'




How to Place Your Speakers to Maximize Your Home Theater Experience


How to Place Your Speakers to Maximize Your Home Theater Experience

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Whether you are setting up your computer speakers or a complex home theater bundle, understanding the art and science of speaker channels and placement is the most critical step in enjoying your new sound system. Read on as we guide you through a crash course in surround sound setup.

Why Should I Care?

The other day a friend of ours was showing us his new HDTV setup and new speakers. While he had researched his HDTV purchase tirelessly, he hadn’t put much thought into the speaker setup. When it came time to set up the speakers he had purchased to go with the TV he simply plugged them in and set them all on the shelf under his new TV. The only way for that setup to be less optimal would be if the speakers were inside a nearby closet.
There is an enormous amount of energy invested in giving you a great home theater and listening experience. Everyone from speaker designers to audio engineers to foley grips—the people who add sound effects into movies—have all contributed to recreating realistic and enjoyable sound in your home.
In order to take advantage of all that energy invested in producing awesome soundtracks and movie scores, however, you have to invest a little energy of your own. Don’t worry, we have already done the research for you. Simply follow along as we explain what each speaker does and where you want to place it.

Understanding Stereo, Surround, and Audio Channels

To start our speaker placement journey, let’s first start out with the most familiar audio setup around—simple stereo sound. When you’re listening to your iPod with a pair of headphones, watching television on a set with no attached theater or speaker system, or listening to the radio, you’re experiencing audio in stereo.
Stereo audio is simply two channels of audio, one for the left speaker and one for the right speaker. It’s the most minimal setup required to provide the illusion of sound directionality and perspective for the listener.
In surround sound notation, this simple two channel setup is referred to as a 2.0 system (or, 2 channels with no subwoofer). Adding in a subwoofer changed the notation to 2.1—the .1 represents the subwoofer and the accompanying Low Frequency Effects channel that powers it.
More complex audio systems build on the 2.1 system and add additional channels to create a 360-degree envelope of sound around the listener. Unlike simple 2 channel systems that are usually driven by hardware on the main device (such as the portable music player or television set), multi-channel surround sound systems generally require a separate component known as an receiver to amplify and distribute the audio signals from the source (like the Blu-ray player or cable box) to the speakers. Current consumer audio receivers support anywhere between 5.1 to 11.2 channels of audio (five speakers with one subwoofer and eleven speakers with two subwoofers, respectively).
The vast majority of receivers currently support 5.1 and 7.1 channel surround sound—very few Blu-ray movies currently ship with audio support for anything higher than 7.1 so there is little reason for consumers to incur the expense of outfitting their homes with larger speaker systems. (If you are curious what happened to 6.1 sound, it was never widely adopted, there are very few home theaters configured for it, and even fewer 6.1 mastered media sources to use with it.)
Let’s get started with your speaker setup. We will begin with a simple 2.1 setup and move to a 7.1 setup. The tips and tricks for each setup section will build on the advice from the previous one so we strongly suggest reading straight through.

How Do I Configure Optimum Stereo (2.1) Sound?

Now that we’ve got a little terminology under out belts, let’s take a look at how we can best configure the most common speaker setups, starting with a 2.1 channel system.
Speaker layout diagrams courtesy of the Dolby Surround Sound Speaker Placement Tool.
Placing the Subwoofer: First, let’s place the subwoofer (4 in the diagram above) as it’s the simplest speaker to place. The low-frequency sound generated by the subwoofer is omnidirectional and as such you can place the subwoofer just about anywhere you want that’s convenient within the room and easy to link to the receiver.
The only caution to observe in placing the subwoofer is to avoid placing it directly into a corner or inside any sort of recessed cabinetry or architectural detail. Placing the subwoofer very close to walls and in semi-enclosed spaces changes the speaker from an omnidirectional one to a more directional one and usually results in the subwoofer sounding overpoweringly loud and boomy compared to its companion speakers. If you cannot avoid such placement we strongly suggest dialing down your subwoofer (either at the physical speaker if possible or via your receiver’s interface) to compensate.
Placing the 2 channels: In a 2.1 channel setup all audio (save for the low frequency effects generated by the subwoofer) will be produced by the left and right channels. All the sound effects, music, and dialogue from the speakers will be broadcast into the room towards you from the front.
The two primary channel speakers, left and right, should be placed roughly 3-4 feet off the center of the viewing screen (feel free to shrink these offsets if you have a particularly large screen to contend with) and at roughly ear height with the listener. Keep in mind that ear height for the listener is dependent on their height when seated—around 3.5-4 feet for most situations. You don’t need the speakers to be adjusted in height precisely for the height of the listener but they should be within 6-8 inches—any higher or lower and you will get the unsettling sense that the actors you see on the screen are throwing their voices from a higher or lower location.
In addition to positioning the speakers off to the sides of the screen and at listening height to the viewer, you want to angle the speakers inwards towards the listener (known as toe-in, as opposed to facing them toe-out or straight ahead). The ideal angle for your toe-in speakers is between 22-30 degrees. Place your speakers accordingly to create this cone-of-sound directed towards the center of the listening area (e.g. the middle seat in your couch).
A note on precision: It’s important to note that we’ are aiming for optimum home theater sound (within reason), not getting our sound system certified for an IMAX Theater. While the Internet is filled with audiophile and home theater discussion boards teeming with people obsessed with angle increments, half-inch adjustments in speaker height, and other minute details of speaker setup we firmly ascribe to belief that if it falls within the general specs the audio engineers assume a home theater will have and it sounds good to our ear then it’s good enough. Just moving your speakers to the proper position and recommended arc off the viewer will radically increase the quality of your experience.

How Do I Configure Optimum 5.1 Channel Surround Sound?

5.1 channel sound is widely regarded as the absolute minimum speaker setup required to create immersive surround sound. The 5.1 channel setup builds on the arrangement of the 2.1 setup but adds in a center channel and a left and right surround sound channel.
In order to configure a 5.1 setup, first start by placing the subwoofer and the left and right front channels (the 2 channels from the 2.1 setup outlined above). Once you have placed and angled the left and right front channel, it’s time to add in the center and surround channels.
Placing the center channel: In the 2.1 setup, the left and right front speakers are responsible for delivery of all the music, dialogue, and sound effects. In the 5.1 setup the sound delivery is spread around to the additional speakers. The center channel’s most important role is that of dialogue delivery. Since the actors are generally in frame and roughly around the center of the screen the new center channel is perfect for delivering their dialog so that the speaking sounds as if it is coming directly from the actor on screen.
The center channel should be placed dead center to the main viewing seat and should be toe-out (no angle to either the left or right). The center channel should be as close to ear height as your setup allows and can be placed either above or below the screen. If you cannot place the speaker as close to the bottom or top of the screen as you would like, you can angle the speaker up or down slightly to direct the sound more towards the listener’s head.
Placing the left and right surround sound channels: Just like the addition of the center channel offloads some of the work from the original left and right channels of the 2.1 setup, the addition of the left and right surround sound channels also spreads out the load. The surround sound channels are responsible for environmental and ambient sounds. If you are watching a concert recording, for example, the cheers and whistles of the audience would be delivered over these channels—creating the auditory illusion that you’re setting in the front row of the concert.
In order to place the left and right surround sound channels for maximum impact, you want them positioned at roughly 90-110 degrees relative to your listening position—in other words, right beside each of your ears or slightly behind them by 10-20 degrees. In addition you want to place them slightly above the head of the viewer.
If you have to compromise on the placement of the speakers because of the shape of the room or location of furniture within it, it’s better to position the surround sound channels further back and higher rather than forward and lower (it’s disorienting to have ambient background noise sound as if it is coming from in front of you instead of from the sides and background where it belongs).

How Do I Configure Optimum 7.1 Channel Surround Sound?

If a 5.1 channel system is the absolute minimum for surround sound, 7.1. channels is definitely the return-on-investment sweet spot for consumer home theater setups. While there are currently more 5.1 channel DVD and Blu-ray discs released than discrete 7.1 channels discs, more and more releases are coming out with 7.1. sound and most receivers will intelligently split the surround channels on a 5.1 mastered media source between the two additional surround sound channels in the 7.1 setup for an even more immersive experience.
To setup a 7.1 system you will first place the subwoofer, front left, right, and center channels, and the two surround sound channels (labeled 4 in the diagram below). In addition to those five channels and woofer you now have two more channels: the left and right back speakers (labeled 5).
Placing the left and right back speakers: The 7.1 setup adds even more auditory realism to your home theater experience via the addition of two more surround sound channels. These channels should be placed roughly 135-150 degrees behind the viewer and just above head level.
Again, if you have to compromise with the placement of the back speakers we recommend you move them further back, closer together, and/or higher. Doing so will affect the sound quality and envelope of sound you are striving to create less than if you moved them forward/further apart (and thus risked rear-placed sounds seeming out of place and other sounds just blending in with the left and right surround channels) or lower (ambient noise emanating from near the ground can be disorienting to the listener and would end up partially blocked by furniture).

Further Tweaks to Enhance Your Home Theater Experience

Simply placing your speakers within the rough guidelines put forth here will ensure you are getting a better sound experience than most (we’re looking at you, guy-with-all-7-channels-balanced-on-the-TV set). To take things a step further and consider the following free or nearly-free tips and tricks.
Automatic Calibration: Most of us have our home theaters in our living rooms or other multipurpose rooms—in other words, less than acoustically idea settings. While it’s possible to sit and fine tune the output of each individual speaker using only a well-trained ear and a good chunk of time, we prefer to do things the easy (and generally more accurate way).
Check the documentation that came with your receiver to see if your receive supports microphone-enhanced optimization. While each company calls their system something different—Yamaha calls their system YPAO, or Yamaha Parametric room Acoustic Optimizer, seen above—the general premise of the systems is that a small microphone is hooked up to the receiver, placed where the listener’s head would be during routine use, and then a series of tones and signals are sent over the speakers to test for things like echo, muddy sound, and other artifacts. The receiver then dynamically adjusts the speakers for these problems to produce a more balanced listening experience.
Although many automatic calibration systems allow you to take anywhere from 2-10 additional measurements from the additional seats located in the listening area, we recommend against measuring very far outside the center of the listening area—measurements on the fringe of of a large seating area or along the walls can lead to distorted results, lower-than-necessary speaker output, and diminished subwoofer response.
Adjust the Center Channel: Although we’re big fans of using the manufacturer’s automatic calibration, if you find yourself turning the volume up really loud during movies to hear the dialogue—and then getting blasted when the action scene come—it’s time to adjust your center channel.
At the receiver, increase the the output to the center channel until dialogue is clear and bright even at the lower general volume setting—then when the rocket and hand grenades go off you won’t have to duck and cover.
Upgrade Your Speaker Wire: This absolutely does not mean going out and buying some coated-with-Unicorn-blood $50 a foot wire. What this does mean is that if you’re using the super cheap noodle-thin wire that came with your equipment you’d be well served to upgrade to some thicker wire. You can order 100 feet of 16-gauge speaker wire for ten bucks.

Demo Clips/Discs: Although just about every receiver under the sun will have a built-in tone test, that’s not exactly a fun demonstration of surround sound capabilities. Sure you can calibrate your speakers with it, but you didn’t go to all the work of setting up a home theater system to listen to some beeps and boops.
For more of a wow-factor you want to check out surround sound demos included with many movies—here’s a list of all 300+ THX-certified movies that include a THX surround sound test/demo. Alternatively you can grab individual demo trailers courtesy of Demo-World.
The best demonstration, of course, is a good movie. Grab your favorite movie with a suitable number of explosions and other surround sound show stoppers and fire away. Not sure where to start in the movie selection process? Allow us to suggest some classic showing-off-the-theater clips:
  • Master and Commander–Chapter 4–High seas battles, cannon fire, creaking ships, crashing waves: there’s a reason this film is one of the most frequently used home theater demo movies. The audio quality is stellar and the surround sound application is over the top.
  • The Matrix—Chapter 31—the whole of the Matrix is a treat but the Morpheus-rescue-scene towards the end of the movie is packed with surround sound goodness.
  • U-571—Chapter 15—This submarine warfare movie is rich with sound effects and home theater enthusiasts have been using it since its DVD release in 2000.
  • The Dark Knight—Chapter 20—Batman movies are full of sound effects and the high-speed chase through Gotham City is Chapter 20 is no exception.
  • Iron Man—Chapter 10—The entire Iron Man film is packed with speaker-blasting effects, but the desert battle halfway through the movie is a feast of surround sound nuances.

Armed with the knowledge of proper speaker layout, you can easily adjust and upgrade your listening experience in under an hour or two. Have a home theater tip or trick to add to the conversation? Sound off in the comments below

The Ultimate Guide to Installing Incompatible Android Apps from Google Play


The Ultimate Guide to Installing Incompatible Android Apps from Google Play

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Android developers can restrict their apps to certain devices, countries, and minimum versions of Android. However, there are ways around these restrictions, allowing you to install apps marked as “not compatible with your device.”
Note that these tricks are all unsupported by Google. These tricks require fooling Google Play, and many require root. Some of these tricks may not work properly, as Google doesn’t want us doing these things.
Image Credit: Dru Kelly on Flickr

Why Are Apps Incompatible?

Android developers can restrict their apps in a variety of ways:
  • Some apps are marked as only being compatible with certain phones or tablets. However, they may run just fine on unsupported devices.
  • Other apps are only allowed to be installed in certain countries. For example, you can’t install the Hulu Plus app outside the USA, and some online-banking apps are only available in the bank’s country.
  • All apps have a minimum version of Android they require. For example, Google’s Chrome browser requires Android 4.0 or higher.
Bear in mind that simply installing an incompatible app won’t necessarily make it work. Some apps may actually be incompatible with your device, while other apps (like Hulu) will only work when used within the US (or with a US VPN or DNS service like Tunlr.)
Note that you won’t see incompatible apps when searching via Google Play on your Android smartphone or tablet. They just won’t appear in the search results. You will see incompatible apps when searching on the Google Play website.

Bypass Device Restrictions

Android devices include a build.prop file that identifies the model of the device. if you have a rooted Android device, you can edit the build.prop file and make your device appear to be another device entirely. This will allow you to install apps that are marked as compatible with the other device.
Note that you’ll need to be rooted to use this trick. We have previously shown you how to easily root Nexus devices with WugFresh’s Nexus Root Toolkit. The process will be different for other devices.
We have already described how to edit your build.prop file manually, but there’s now an easier way. The new Market Helper app allows you to spoof another device without editing your build.prop file. It’s much easier, faster, and safer. (However, bear in mind that it also requires root.)
This app isn’t available in Google Play, so you’ll have to grab it from the developer’s website and sideload it. Once it’s installed, open the app and you’ll be able to spoof a popular device like a Samsung Galaxy S3 or a Nexus 7. You can then install apps compatible with that device. After you’re done, you can restart your device and it will appear to be itself again.
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Bear in mind that apps marked as incompatible may actually be incompatible with your device, so some apps may not work properly after you install them.

Tricks for Installing Country-Restricted Apps

Some apps are only available in certain countries. If you have forgotten to install your bank’s app before travelling or you want to install a video or music-playing app that’s not available in your country, you may be able to fool Google into thinking your device is actually in another country.
We have used these tricks in the past to install US-only apps from outside the US. However, none of these tricks worked for us when we tried them while composing the article. It’s possible that Google is sure our account is outside the US because we have paid with a non-US payment method on Google Play. However, we have included these tips in the hopes that they may still work for some of you.
If you do manage to install a country-restricted app, it will become linked to your account, allowing you to install it on your other devices without requiring any tricks in the future.
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Use a VPN to Install Country-Restricted Apps

You can use a VPN to fool Google into thinking your device is in another country. This may only work on devices without cellular connectivity, such as tablets, as Google may use the cellular network your device is on as its location.
Using a VPN doesn’t require root access.  We have previously shown you how to connect to VPNs on Android. If you need a free US or UK-based VPN, try installing the TunnelBear app. TunnelBear only gives you a certain amount of free data per month, but it should be more than enough to install a few apps.
android-tunnelbear-vpn
Restart your Android device, connect to a VPN located in the appropriate country, and then open the Google Play app. Your device should hopefully now appear to be located in another country, allowing you to download apps available in the VPN’s country.
You will need to use something like Tunlr or a VPN app to access country-restricted media services after installing media apps. However, some apps – such as online-banking apps – will work normally in other countries after they’re installed.

Use MarketEnabler to Install Country-Restricted Apps

If you have smartphone with cellular connectivity, Google will use your carrier’s information to determine its country. If you have root access, you can install the MarketEnabler app. This app allows you to spoof other carrier identifiers, making your device appear to be on a carrier in another country. For example, if you select [us] T-Mobile, your phone will appear to be on T-Mobile in the USA.
android-marketenabler
With either the VPN or MarketEnabler trick, you may need to clear the Google Play Store app’s data to make it detect your device’s new country. To do so, open the Settings screen, tap Apps, swipe over to the All list, scroll down to the Google Play Store app, and tap it. Tap Force stop, Clear data, and then Clear cache.
google-play-store-clear-data-and-cache
Re-open Google Play and it should hopefully find your new location.

Install the App’s APK File

If an app is marked as incompatible because you’re in the wrong country, you may be able to locate the app’s .APK file and sideload it onto your device.
Note that downloading and installing random APKs from the web is a security risk, just as downloading random EXE files from unofficial sources is a security risk on Windows. You shouldn’t download APKs from untrusted sources. However, some apps are offered in APK form officially.
You can also have people you know in another country extract the APK file from their device and send it to you. (AirDroid has an easy-to-use extract APK feature.)

Upgrade Your Android Operating System

If you want an app that requires a newer version of Android, you’ll need to update your device to the latest version of Android to get it. Most Android devices aren’t receiving updates, but you can look at installing community-created ROMs like CyanogenMod to get a newer version of Android.
For example, if you have an phone that’s still running Android 2.3, Gingerbread, and you want to install the Chrome browser (only available for Android 4.0, Ice Cream Sandwich, and newer versions of Android), you may find a community-developed ROM like CyanogenMod that can update your device to a newer version of Android, allowing you to install and use the app.
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Image Credit: Johan Larsson on Flickr

Do you know any other tricks for installing incompatible apps? The VPN and MarketEnabler methods for accessing country-restricted apps didn’t appear to work for us anymore, but did they work for you? If not, did you find a better method? Leave a comment and share what you’ve discovered!

Tuesday, 27 August 2013

How to Turn Your Ubuntu Laptop into a Wireless Access Point


How to Turn Your Ubuntu Laptop into a Wireless Access Point

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If you have a single wired Internet connection – say, in a hotel room – you can create an ad-hoc wireless network with Ubuntu and share the Internet connection among multiple devices. Ubuntu includes an easy, graphical setup tool.
Unfortunately, there are some limitations. Some devices may not support ad-hoc wireless networks and Ubuntu can only create wireless hotspots with weak WEP encryption, not strong WPA encryption.

Setup

To get started, click the gear icon on the panel and select System Settings.
Select the Network control panel in Ubuntu’s System Settings window. You can also set up a wireless hotspot by clicking the network menu and selecting Edit Network Connections, but that setup process is more complicated.
If you want to share an Internet connection wirelessly, you’ll have to connect to it with a wired connection. You can’t share a Wi-Fi network – when you create a Wi-Fi hotspot, you’ll be disconnected from your current wireless network.
To create a hotspot, select the Wireless network option and click the Use as Hotspot button at the bottom of the window.
You’ll be disconnected from your existing network. You can disable the hotspot later by clicking the Stop Hotspot button in this window or by selecting another wireless network from the network menu on Ubuntu’s panel.
After you click Create Hotspot, you’ll see an notification pop up that indicates your laptop’s wireless radio is now being used as an ad-hoc access point. You should be able to connect from other devices using the default network name – “ubuntu” – and the security key displayed in the Network window. However, you can also click the Options button to customize your wireless hotspot.
From the wireless tab, you can set a custom name for your wireless network using the SSID field. You can also modify other wireless settings from here. The Connect Automatically check box should allow you to use the hotspot as your default wireless network – when you start your computer, Ubuntu will create the hotspot instead of connecting to an existing wireless network.
From the Wireless Security tab, you can change your security key and method. Unfortunately, WPA encryption does not appear to be an option here, so you’ll have to stick with the weaker WEP encryption.
The “Shared to other computers” option on the IPv4 Settings tab tells Ubuntu to share your Internet connection with other computers connected to the hotspot.
Even if you don’t have a wireless Internet connection available to share, you can network computers together and communicate between them – for example, to share files.

How To Make an Incredibly Easy Panoramic Photograph With Any Camera


How To Make an Incredibly Easy Panoramic Photograph With Any Camera

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You might know that there are special cameras for shooting panoramic pictures. Today, we’ll put one together in seconds that we shot with a regular digital camera and a tripod. Grab your favorite image editor and camera, and let’s go!
Even if you don’t have Photoshop, you’ll be surprised at how easy it can be to take some good shots, merge them, and get a convincing panorama. With our simple tips, you’ll have a much easier time shooting the right kind of images, and splicing them together to make the perfect panorama. Keep reading!

Setting Up Your Panoramic Shot

The most difficult part of creating a panoramic image with a non-panoramic camera is simply shooting the images—properly. Assuming some general guidelines are followed, it can be very easy to put together a great panorama.
The first part of the process involves getting a tripod that your camera can mount on and find a relatively level place to shoot your image. If you use an inferior second-hand tripod (like your author) pennies can make a great, cheap fix to level a wobbly mount.
Rotate your shot horizontally on a fixed axis and take multiple shots that overlap. Don’t stop at four if you want more! You can create a full 360 if you prefer. But when taking your pictures, remember you want to keep them consistent, so it is important to use the same focusshutter speed, and aperture settings, so automatic shooting will make your life more difficult.
Most lenses on DSLRs have manual and automatic settings, as shown above. Take a test picture with fully auto focus, then switch to fully manual to keep the lens from adjusting as you rotate on your axis.
If you aren’t using a DSLR, you may have to refer to your camera’s manual to see if you can disable the auto focus, or simply shoot around it.
Similarly, you don’t want changes in light to affect your shots. Use your own manual settings, or take a test automatic shot, and copy those shutter speed and aperture settings. If you’re unfamiliar with how to use manual settings, you may want to start by reading Technopheniac’s guide to the elements of exposure.
If your camera doesn’t have a full on manual mode, you can use program mode to control as many of the elements of exposure as possible.

Merging Your Pictures

As long as you bracket your images, you’ll probably end up with a set of good, usable pics to make a panorama from. Pick your best set of four or more (although you can merge as few as two!) and pop them into Photoshop.
Make sure all of your images are open in Photoshop, as shown here, all open in multiple tabs. You can make adjustments at this stage if you want to develop the Raw images—since you can adjust all the images at once, you can ensure they stay as consistent as possible. When they’re all open, you can proceed to the next step.
Navigate to File > Automate > Photomerge. This is a feature for newer versions of Photoshop, but don’t dismay if you’re using an older version or even the GIMP, we’ll address that later.
Photomerge has a dialog box like this one. We’ll add our files to the tool, then select how we’d like Photoshop to make our panorama.
“Add Open Files” is straightforward and saves you the time of digging through your pics again.
While you can use any of the various “layout” settings to get a panorama, we used “reposition” in this case. Try them all to check out the various effects included with the tool. Click “OK” when you’re finished.
This was our first result using only this tool—a perfectly acceptable starting point. We crop our image and we’ve got our panorama completed.
Seriously, after only a single crop, this is what we’re left with. Our panorama is high resolution, and pretty convincing. Let’s take a look at what’s going on to create the image.
 
Photoshop has aligned the images in a single file and created image masks to stitch them together nearly seamlessly. Here are two screenshots of two separate layers. You can clearly see where Photoshop fit the two layers together.
This is what your new file’s layers will look like. This is important, because you can do this manually, and you don’t even need Photoshop. Let’s briefly take a look at that.

What if I Don’t Have Photoshop? (or Photomerge?)

Even though Photomerge makes making a panorama ludicrously easy, it’s not terribly difficult to manually align and mask images in Photoshop or even GIMP.
Start by using the move tool and nudge the images until they more or less fit together as shown. They don’t have to be (nor will they be) perfect. All manner of things could cause problems—your lens could be distorting the image, your tripod could have moved, etc. Just do your best and trust that you can mask out the worst parts later.
Find these areas that appear incongruous in your image, create masks and use soft edged paintbrushes to gently blend them together. Don’t follow hard edges or the edge of your photograph! Simply paint weird organic shapes like the ones shown here in the selection to smoothly and invisibly mask out the parts of your panorama that don’t fit together perfectly. You’ll get a result very much like the automated image.

Results and a Final Image

You can tweak your image and spend all manner of time fixing it, just like any photograph, but you’ll probably be pleasantly surprised when you put your images together just how easy it can be, providing you take the proper precautions when you take your images. I really can’t stress how important that is.

Enjoy making your own panoramic photographs! Join the discussion, and address questions on the process or tell us about your own tricks and methods for making panoramas in the comments section below. And if you make some fun panoramic images, feel free to send them along to ericgoodnight@howtogeek.com, and we may choose your pictures to share with all of How-to Geek’s readers.
Image Credits: All images by the author, protected under Creative Commons, attribution toEric Z Goodnight