Saturday, 26 October 2013

25 Essential Tweaks to Perform on Your New Android Phone (Updated for 2012)

25 Essential Tweaks to Perform on Your New Android Phone (Updated for 2012)

BY ALBIN PAUL 
Get your phone set up the right way with this essential checklist, especially if it's a Galaxy Nexus!


With any new smartphone, there is a bit of setup to be done. With Android, users can tweak every minute detail of the device to get the best experience. There’s no reason to go hunting around the Internet for all the best tip and tricks for your new Android phone. We’re here to bring it all together for you.
Whether your device is still on Gingerbread or you’re rocking the latest and greatest Android 4.0, we’ve got you covered. This step-by-step guide will help you get that shiny new Android phone up and running in no time.

1. Prepare Your Google Account

Before you get in too deep playing with your new toy, get your Google account settings into shape. Head over to your Google Contacts on a computer, and get rid of all the email addresses you don’t need. Pay special attention to contacts that lack a phone number, and add it if you have one. You can also make groups for easier sorting on your device.
If you’re using an Ice Cream Sandwich device, you might consider manually adding a higher-resolution image to your favorite contacts. There are a lot of places in the new OS that contact images are shown off in a big tile-based UI. If the users have used a tiny image for their profile pic, it’s going to look a little busted on the phone.
As for Gmail, we still suggest that you add a filter for Android Market purchases, although the way you go about this has changed. Each time you buy an app, book, video, or MP3 from the Market, Google emails a receipt. Since that mail ends up on your phone, you don’t want to be bothered with an email each and every time.
Head to the Gmail settings, and go to Filters. At the bottom choose to make a new filter. You’ll only have to fill in the “from” field in this first box. The address for these receipt emails changes from time to time, but right now it’s “noreply-android-market@google.com.” On the next page, just choose to automatically mark these emails as “Read” when they come in. You might also consider automatically labeling it as a receipt for easy access later. You may also use the "from:" modifier in the search box to pull up the same filter options.
Lastly for your initial setup, get a Google Voice number if you don’t already have one. Unfortunately, this service is still US-only. Sorry to our international friends; feel free to skip ahead. Everyone else, go to the Google Voice site and get an account, then choose a number. You will have to associate the account with an mobile existing number, which Google Voice will then call to confirm. Just like that you can get voicemail transcription, call recording, cheap international calls, and free SMS.

2. Secure your phone

As soon as you start up your new device, head into the settings and find Location & Security, but sometimes it’s just called Security. The default locking mechanism is Slide, which is just a gesture-based lock that anyone can operate. Android has always had a few more options, and some versions add in more goodies here.
On Froyo and later, you can set up a PIN, password, or pattern lock. The pattern lock is a hallmark of Android. You have a grid of nine dots, and you draw a line intersecting at least 4 of them. That pattern must be entered each time you unlock the device. It is a fairly secure lock, but PIN and passwords are a little more robust.
Starting with Android 4.0, there is a new face unlock feature that uses the front-facing camera to identify the owner of the phone, and unlock. As a backup, the system will also have you set a PIN or pattern lock as a backup in case something goes wrong with the face ID. We’ve found face lock to be very accurate, but you can also go back to the Security menu to further train face unlock. Try training it both with and without your glasses, or with various stages of beard growth for the guys out there.

3. Configure Google Voice Voicemail

More likely than not, your carrier’s voicemail system stinks. They may even want to charge you a few bucks extra each month for visual voicemail. If you have a Google Voice number, no problem. On the phone, go to the call settings and find Vociemail Service. The default will be the carrier service, but you can just change that to Google Voice. On AT&T and T-Mobile (and indeed most GSM carriers), this change will go through automatically.
Verizon’s system won’t process the change automatically, so you have to head over to the Google Voice site on your computer and manually set up voicemail in the phone settings. It will provide you with a code to set up conditional call forwarding, which is basically what the Google Voice app does automatically on other carriers.
Sprint users have a unique deal where all the calls and voicemail can be routed through Google Voice on the carrier level. Very little setup is required on the Google Voice site.
However you go about doing this, remember that call forwarding is usually not available on pre-paid plans, so you’re out of luck there.

4. Use Google+ to save your snapshots

Your new phone probably comes with Google+ pre-installed, and if you’re on Ice Cream Sandwich, it even asks you to sign up if you don’t already have a profile. Even if you don’t intend to post on Google’s social network, we suggest you set up an account to save your pictures in the cloud.
In the Google+ app, head to the settings and go to photo settings to activate Instant Upload. If you are on a tiered data plan, we would suggest that you enable Wi-Fi only uploads. The Wi-Fi setting exists for pictures and videos separately. That way your images won’t eat into your data cap while out an about; they just upload the next time you’re on Wi-Fi. Similarly, you can turn on battery uploads to only allow uploads when you’re plugged in. If you’ve already taken some images, tap Upload Now to get everything into Google+.
Storage is unlimited and free for phone uploads, but images will be cropped to a maximum of 2048 pixels wide on a side, and videos will only be saved if they are 15 minutes or less. You might lose a little resolution, but it’s still more than enough to share online. You can’t argue with the price, either.

5. Kill carrier bloatware on Android 4.0

This bit is for Android 4.0 only. Depending on the phone you have, there might be some apps you’d rather not have to deal with installed on your phone. The unfortunate fact of the matter is that they aren’t going away, and if you forcibly remove them from storage, ROM updates might not work properly. With ICS, however, you can at least disable them for good.
Go into the main system settings, and open the Applications menu. Head over to the All apps tab, and find the offending software. When you open the details page, it should have a Disable button right at the top. It takes just a second and the app will be removed from your app drawer. Any processes associated with the app will also be killed for good.
Users of older phones are probably going to have to root to do this (more on that later), but check to make sure the crapware is not uninstallable in that same menu. Sometimes these apps are separate from the ROM itself.

6. Get your music into the cloud

Google debuted Google Music last year, and it’s tightly integrated with Android. Being an Android user, you ought to take advantage of it. Go to the Google Music site, and grab the Music manager software. Once installed on your computer, it will upload your entire music collection to the cloud for streaming. It might take a day or two, but it’s best to get it done early.
Once you’ve got your content saved, you can also buy new music from the Android Market and have it automatically saved to your Google Music account. All that music is visible in the Android Music app, as well. You can stream any of it with an Internet connection, and from within the Music app, you can save tracks for offline listening.
Google Music can accept up to 20,000 tracks from your computer, so it’s ideal for large collections. You never need to worry about keeping a lot of music on your device again. It’s easy to sync favorite tracks and stream the rest.

7. Data monitoring is a must

As we march slowly into an uncertain mobile future, tiered data plans are more and more common. Some carriers that claim unlimited access are not telling the whole truth either. If you’ve got a 2, 4, or 5GB cap, you might hit that ceiling over the course of a month. So It’s a good idea to set up data usage monitors on your phone.
If you’re running Android 2.3 or earlier, grab 3G Watchdog from the Android Market. There is a free version with basic tools, and more advanced paid version for $3. This app runs as a service in the background and counts all the bytes you use. 3G Watchdog arrays your data on handy graphs, and can predict usage if you have the Pro version. It ties in with APNdroid to shut off data at certain thresholds if you like.
On Android 4.0, Google introduced a native data monitoring interface that is easily accessible in the main system settings. Just set up your billing cycle, and you’re off to the races. Users can set a threshold for warnings, and if one chooses, a hard limit where data will be cut off. There are sliders on the graph such that you can see what your usage has been like between any two dates. Below the graph is a nice list of apps organized by individual data usage. We have found this part to be much more accurate than 3G Watchdog was.

8. Ringtones

It’s a small thing, but still something that we do from time to time. What better way to make sure people know that you’re a unique and beautiful snowflake than to have a ringtone or notification that exemplifies your personality?
There are two ways to go about getting custom ringtones on your Android phone. Your first option is to downloadRingdroid from the Market. Using this app, you can clip any audio file on your phone, and save it as a ringtone or notification sound. This app is a mainstay of the platform, and you should keep it around just in case. Unfortunately, it has yet to be updated to Android 4.0, and does not currently work.
Your other alternative is to find the audio file you want, and edit it on your computer with a program like Audacity. Take the resulting file, and save it as an MP3 to the phone’s SD card. If the file is in the Ringtone root directory, it will be detected as such by Android. Same goes for the Notifications folder.

9. Make navigation shortcuts and cache your maps

The Google Maps and Navigation experience on Android just keeps getting better. If you’ve got an Android phone, be sure to make ample use of this awesome feature. One way to make sure you’ll use it is to add navigation shortcuts to the home screen for fast and easy turn-by-turn directions.
On Android 2.3 and earlier, long-press on the home screen and choose Shortcuts. Scroll down until you find Directions and Navigation. When you add this, Android will pull up a dialog that asks for an address, name, and type of directions you want. Checking the turn-by-turn box will automatically send you into navigation mode when pressed. On Android 4.0, the only difference is where you find the option. Shortcuts have been merged into widgets with Ice Cream Sandwich, so just head to the widget tab in the app drawer to find the same Directions and Navigation item.
next, you should cache your local maps so you will have access to them offline. This will help you save bandwidth, and could be useful for finding your way sans data connection. Go into the Maps app, and go to the Labs section in the settings. here, you need to activate Pre-caching Maps. Then go to the map view, and long-press in the center of the area you want to cache. Tap on the bubble that comes up, and one of the options should be "Pre-cache map area."

10. Join your social media contacts

Android is fairly good at figuring out who’s who in your contacts list, but if a name or email address is different, things might not get associated correctly. Take a quick look at your contacts app (or People on Android 4.0), and see if all the data and profile images are there. If anything seems to be missing from Twitter, Facebook, or Google, tap on the contact, and use Menu > edit.
Strangely, on this screen you need to hit menu again and choose Join, or Join Contacts. The next page will find suggested contacts for you based on the display names. If that’s the sticking point keeping your friends from showing up properly, just hit menu (yes, again) and choose Display Options. Enable all contacts, and you can scroll through to find the contact you need to merge.
This is mostly the same on Android 4.0, except that it should automatically show all your contacts if the phone is unsure what listings you might want to merge.

11. Set up owner information

On Android 4.0, your People app has an entry at the top of the contact list labeled “Me”. This is the local profile that is used throughout apps on the phone. Depending on your settings, this might have been populated for you, but if not, it’s important that you set it up. The profile picture and data here are used to fill forms and avatars often. In previous versions of Android, a similar but more limited system exists. Some apps call for a profile photo, but won’t have one unless you make a contact entry for yourself called “Me”.
A similar system in Android 4.0 is called Owner Information, but it’s not so prominently displayed. Head to the main system settings, and find the Security sub-menu. Here you will see Owner Info as an option near the top. If you head in here, you can input any text you want to show up on the lock screen.
Technically, you could use it to make a little joke, but it’s smarter to put contact info in so if your phone is found, a third-party can contact you without needing to unlock the device. This is especially important if you use patterns or PINs to lock your device. We just have a name and email address on the lock screen, but you could even put an alternate phone number.

12. Set Adobe Flash to on-demand

For as long as Adobe Flash is still available on the Android platform, your should take this one step to make your browsing experience better. When Flash content loads, it tends to drag down the page slightly, and also increases loading times. If you’re on a tiered data plan, Flash will also cause you to burn through more bytes.
What you’re looking for, is On-Demand mode. This way you can still load Flash content if you like, but it won’t render on its own whenever a page loads. In your browser settings on a Gingerbread or earlier phone, just scroll down until you see the setting for Enable Plug-ins. Tap it and choose On-demand. On Android 4.0 devices, the settings are broken down into sections. Go into Advanced, and find the same option mentioned above.

13. Customize your dictionary

Unlike some other platforms, you can dig in and build a custom dictionary of words that will appear as suggestions and corrections on your Android keyboard. This is especially helpful if you work in a technical field or you just use a lot of technical lingo, and being a Tested reader, we’re sure you do.
Go into your main system settings and find the Language and Keyboard sub-menu. On ICS devices the menu is called Language and Input, but your manufacturer might have called it something else similar. Select User Dictionary, or Personal Dictionaries (again, depending on version), then use Menu > Add, or hit the plus button at the bottom to create new entries.
While using your device, you will also have the opportunity to add words to the dictionary. As you type, words that are not recognized can be added to the dictionary on Android 2.3 by tapping on the word as typed in the suggestion bar twice; once to confirm the spelling, and again to save it. In Android 4.0 and later, you can simply tap on a word with the red spelling alert underline, and a list of suggested changes will pop up. At the bottom there will be an option to Add to Dictionary.

14. Get the essential apps and utilities

Now that the basics are out of the way, it’s time to load up on some apps to make your phone more useful to you. Here are a few of our favorite Android apps.
Astro or AntTek file managers: There are times you will need to poke around in your Android phone’s file system, and both of these apps will help you do it in style. Astro is a robust app that includes extras like app extraction/backup, and task management. The interface is a little clunky, and we’re not fans of the new look. AntTek is slick with a slide-out temporary space for moving files around. It also looks great. Both apps have free versions with ads, but the full version will cost a few bucks.
SHUSH IN ACTION
Shush: This is a great little utility that lets you set timers on your phone’s silent mode. This way you can turn off the ringer, and make sure it comes back on later. The best part is that you just silence the phone normally and Shush pops up, making the process super-easy. This is a free app.
Any.DO: Everyone needs a to-do manger, and Any.DO is our current favorite. This app has a really nice clean look, and uses gestures to control crossing off items. You shake the phone to clear old tasks. If your task involves calling a contact, there will be a handy dial button linked to the task. There is a widget that lets you mark things as done from the home screen, too. This one is free.
Evernote: Having a cloud-connected device in your pocket is the perfect opportunity to jot down a quick note or idea. So you’re going to need a note taking app, and there is nothing better than Evernote. The interface has improved dramatically over the last year and it supports photo, text, and audio notes. Evernote is free up to 25MB in monthly bandwidth, which is a lot of notes.
Awesome Drop: As its name suggest, Awesome Drop is indeed awesome. This app provides a quick and easy way to get files onto your Android device without plugging it in. The Awesome Drop site uses HTML5 drag and drop to upload files to your phone, which you associate with a throwaway account via a PIN code. Awesome Drop is free.

15. Pick up the best games

It’s not all business around here. So grab these excellent games to pass the time.
Shadowgun: This is an intense third-person shooter with great controls, good voice acting, and stellar graphics. Most stages are based around running for cover, and popping up to tag the baddies. The game scales well to a variety of phone specs, and isn’t too expensive at $4.99.
Fruit Ninja: Look, this is a simple game, but it’s also fun. Fruit flies up, and you slice it in half with a quick swipe. What’s not to like about that? The game is smooth on almost any phone, and there is a special HD version for Tegra 2 devices. The basic version will run you $1.
Sprinkle: This might be the single best game on a mobile device. Sprinkle is a physics-based puzzler with not a hint of birds. You have to use a fire-fighting hose to put out the flames threatening the homes of the good people of Titan. There are some really excellent water physics, and the game looks incredible. We are constantly blown away by the clever level design. $1.99, but we would have paid more.
Apparatus: This is not a game for everyone, but in the interest of getting a good mix, we’re including it. Apparatus is a sandbox game where you have to build some insane Rube Goldberg-esque machines to get a ball into a basket. There are levers, ropes, motors, and so much more. You can also just build anything that comes to mind in free-play mode. Apparatus is $2.45 in the Market.
Battleheart: Get your team together and head out for adventure in Battleheart. This game is part real-time strategy and part RPG. Your band of four units can level over time, find new gear, and learn new skills. Can you make it through each stage with everyone still alive? You’ll have the opportunity to find out while enjoying the challenging gameplay and vibrant cartoon-style graphics. $2.99.

16. Set up Market updates and security

The last Android Market refresh really altered the way updates are handled on devices. The Market can update apps in the background or just notify you. Open the Android Market, and go to the settings menu. As long as you are on the most recent build, you should see a number of checkboxes in the general tab. We would suggest that you enable automatic updates, but also make sure to toggle on the Wi-Fi only updates.
With these settings, your device will occasionally check in with the Market to see what requires an update, and if you are on Wi-Fi, your apps will be updated in the background. Apps that have changes in permissions have to be manually updated, but if you leave Notifications checked in the settings, you will be alerted to this.
Also part of the last round of market updates was the ability to lock your market with a PIN code. To set this up, go back to the Market app settings and scroll down past the general section to User Controls. You’re going to want to set a PIN first, but make sure you will remember it. There is no going back after this but completely resetting.
The PIN lock will keep your important settings from being changed without the code. So content filtering stays where you set it, and more importantly, you can require the PIN for purchases. No more worries that your little ones will buy 20 apps accidentally.

17. Sync Chrome bookmarks in Android 4.0

Your Google accounts can be used to sync bookmarks to the Android 4.0 browser, and this should take very little setup. In your Account and Sync menu, check to make sure the Google account you want synced has the Sync Browser box checked. For the time being this is just for bookmarks, but in the future it might include more data.
From your desktop Chrome browser, go into the settings, and go to the Personal Stuff tab. he first option should be to sign into Chrome with your Google account. When you do this, do not encrypt everything. It's find to leave passwords encrypted, but there is a bug in the Google sync system that will prevent encrypted bookmarks from being synced. The sync will fail on the phone, and you won't be given an explanation.
Once that's done, your bookmarks should populate in a separate tab from the local ones. Any changes will be reflected on all your connected browser.

18. Try some alternative keyboards

SWIFTKEY X
Truth be told, we quite like the Android 4.0 keyboard, but you won’t be able to see that in its full glory until your device is updated, or you pick up an ICS phone. In the meantime, it’s time to look at some of the alternative keyboards in the Android Market and elsewhere. Everyone ought to first take a look at the free Swype Beta. You’ll need to catch the Swype site on a good day to get into the beta program, but they usually leave it open these days.
With Swype, you just trace a line that passes through the letters of each word, and Swype figures out what you mean. It’s usually uncannily accurate, and there are a ton of shortcuts built into the interface. It’s a little bit less accurate for tapping out non-dictionary words, but you shouldn’t have to do that too much. Since this is not in the Market, it’s a little bit of a pain to install. For some users, Swype is amazingly fast and accurate, but others still prefer tapping, and there is an option for that as well.
The folks at SwitfKey have been refining their Android text entry offering for the last few years, and in 2011 we saw SwiftKey X drop, and it’s really excellent. The keys are responsive, and the prediction algorithm is scary-good. It remembers what you type over time, and combines that with your content in Gmail, SMS, Facebook, and Twitter to learn the words you use. If that last bit is a little too weird for you, just know that it’s optional. We also like the plethora of settings included with this little wonder. The full version of SwiftKey X is $3.99 in the Market.

19. Try some home screen alternatives

On most Android phones, the maker of the device, like Samsung or HTC, has decided to apply its own software layer to Android. At this point, most devices are able to handle this modification without too much detriment. Some interfaces like Samsung’s TouchWiz have even added some useful features like native screenshot capture and a power bar in the notification pane. On balance, you might be happier with a lighter-weight replacement home screen. If you’re using a stock ICS phone, you’re probably in a good place already, but feel free to experiment.
LauncherPro has been a long time favorite home screen that offers features like variable grid layouts, transition effects, and scrollable widgets. Swiping from screen to screen is very fluid, and the dock at the bottom of the screen is totally customizable with unique icons and notification popups. The full version of LuncherPro with all the widgets costs $3.50, but even the free edition is great.
Another choice is ADW and ADW EX. The EX version is a paid, non-open source app that will run you about $3. Both of these apps are smooth home screen replacements with a lot of options. Whereas development of LaucherPro seems to have slowed, ADW is forging ahead and has even started adding support for Honeycomb, and some limited ICS features. This app includes scrollable widgets, theming, and gesture-control. Definitely check out the free version to get a feel for it and compare to LauncherPro.

20. Design the perfect home screen

One of the truly awesome things about Android is the freedom it gives you to set up the perfect home screen with widgets and shortcuts. It’s easy to go off the deep end and fill up all the available space with bells and whistles, but we suggest being logical about it. Try to keep like apps together, and place related widgets near each other. Perhaps you want to keep calendars, email, and to-do content to one side of the main screen, and media/games to the other side.
The center home screen panel is where you should keep your most important widgets and apps. Basically, anything that you want to glance at often. We like to have weather and system stats on this panel, but maybe you want to have sports scores. Watch for rotation lag on keyboarded devices, and laggy scrolling on all phones. Most devices should be fine, but a misbehaving widget can cause a multitude of issues.
On Android 4.0, the home screen is much more flexible with new and improved folders. Just drop an app icon onto another and you have a folder. You can have up to 16 apps in each folder, and it is even possible to rearrange the apps within the folder. Because this is so easy, you should try to work folders into your home screen design. Folders can also live in the launcher dock at the bottom of the screen so they area available everywhere.

21. Make settings more easily accessible

Android 4.0 removed the menu button for the home screen, and that sometimes makes it seem awkward to reach the settings. You don’t want to open the app drawer every time, so here’s what to do. First, get the settings “app” from the app drawer, and put a shortcut on the home screen. Next, Go to the widget section and find the Settings Shortcut 1x1.
When you place this on a home screen, you will be asked to choose a destination from a list of about a dozen. There are options like Data usage, battery, apps, display, and Wi-Fi settings. This makes it very simple to get to important areas that might be a few levels deep in the settings with just one tap. The shortcuts can also be put in a folder for easy storage. See above for more on that.
On older versions of Android, you can do something similar with an app called AnyCut. The interface is a bit clunky, but you can actually make custom shortcuts to anything on the phone. Unfortunately, a lot of these are labeled only as esoteric system functions with no explanation, making it tough to find the right things.

22. Root your phone

You by no means have to do this, and it may actually cause some issues if you have to swap your device, but gaining root access to your phone opens a whole world of possibilities. With root, you can run very low-level apps and services, alter main UI elements, or even install custom ROMs. Be aware, this also makes it much easier to break things.
In the case of most phones, a root exploit will be developed fairly quickly. It may just be a one-click exploit, or it may require a little command line work with ADB on a computer. This functionality is really only officially supported for Nexus devices. Nexus phones can be rooted by running a fastboot OEM unlock through ADB, and flashing the super user binary to the device.
To find out how to root your device, you may have to slink around places like XDA or RootzWiki forums to see what the latest is. Most companies will patch root exploits in updates, so unless you install custom ROMs, or block updates, you have to stay on top of things.

23. Backup your phone (with root)

Backing up is as good an idea now as it was last year. If you've decided to root, make sure one of the first things you do is backup your entire phone. To do this you need to have a custom recovery installed, like Clockwork Mod. This enables you to do a nandroid backup of the entire phone so you can restore it if things go sideways.
We don’t recommend you bother with backing up things like contacts, bookmarks, or apps. These are all handled by the Google cloud as long as you leave the backup checkboxes filled during start up. All this data should come back any time you log into a new, or newly reset Android phone.
You might, however, consider backing up app data if you’re rooted. Developers can set a flag to have the app data backed up and restored automatically, but most don’t. Titanium Backup is a great app for this and it can be used for a ton of other things too. Android apps that you’re worried might not be available in the future can be backed up as APK files that you can install on any phone. We’ve always used Astro File Manager for this, but there are other apps out there. Non-rooted phones can do this as well.

24. Automate your phone

One of our favorite things about Android is the power it gives developers to hook into all parts of the system, with your permission of course. Nowhere is this made better use of than with automation apps like Tasker and Locale. These are apps that we love deeply, and you should get one of them on your phone at once.
Locale is a very mature app that uses a plug-in ecosystem to extend its basic functionality. The app comes with triggers like location, time, and contact calling. You will use these to create situations that you can use to trigger different actions. Locale can do things like turn Wi-Fi or Bluetooth on and off, change the brightness, change the ring/ring mode, and shuffle the wallpaper. There are also a number of other apps in the Market that come with Locale plug-ins, as well as stand alone plug-ins. Locale is $3.99 in the Market.
Whereas Locale is a guided experience, Tasker is the “choose your own adventure” of Android automation. Tasker uses a somewhat convoluted series of menus to create situations, but you’ve got a huge number of options. Everything from accelerometer state, to location, to whether or not you have headphones plugged in can be recognized by Tasker. With a little coding magic, Tasker can even do more exotic things like pull down weather and read it to you, or load directions and map them automatically. Tasker can use Locale plug-ins, but to get the most out of it you need to get familiar with its inner workings. Tasker is a bit more expensive at $6.49.

25. Analyze your battery consumption

It’s been real, hasn’t it? At this point you’ve tweaked and modded your phone to the limit, and now it’s time to take a step back and see what you’ve got to work with on a daily basis. Android is much better at managing tasks andkeeping the battery from draining than it once was, but there is always a chance that something you installed or changed isn’t working right, so let’s check.
After the device has been unplugged for a little bit, the first place to go is the Battery Use menu. On Android 2.3 and earlier, this is hidden in the Phone Info menu in the main system settings. On ICS and later, it has been given a more prominent place in the settings under Battery. This list will show you how much juice each process has used. The percent displayed is not a percent of total power, but the percent of what has been used so far.
On Android 4.0, this menu offers a little more information when you tap on one of the processes listed. Android will show you the time the app has been in the foreground, and the amount of time is has kept the phone awake. This is also known as wakelock. If an app is keeping the phone from sleeping for very long, it might be causing undue battery drain.
Another app you can use to check for battery drain issues is CPU Spy. This handy utility will record your CPU history, so you can see how long your CPU has been at each performance threshold. If it’s not in deep sleep for the vast majority of the time, you have either been using it a lot, or an app has gone rogue. Take a closer look at the Battery menu, and start uninstalling newer apps until you have things under control.
Once your battery situation has been verified as good, it’s time to just start enjoying the phone secure in the knowledge that you’ve done everything you can to make it the best it can be. What are your favorite tips for setting up an Android phone?

Thursday, 24 October 2013

External Drive Not Recognized? This Is How To Fix It In Windows

External Drive Not Recognized? This Is How To Fix It In Windows

External Drive Not Recognized? This Is How To Fix It In Windows




External drives — either USB flash drives or external hard drives — should be easy to use. In some cases, you may connect your drive to a Windows PC or another device with a USB port and find that it’s not recognized. This problem can be caused by partition issues on your external drive, using the wrong file system, dead USB ports, driver issues in Windows, or other problems. In a worst case scenario, the drive itself may simply be dead.
The steps below will be the same for both USB flash drives and larger external hard drives, which work similarly.

Does the Drive Show Up in Disk Management?

First, let’s check whether Windows detects the drive when you plug it in. Plug your removable drive into your computer. If it’s an external hard drive, you may have to flip a power switch on the hard drive to activate it. Some heavy-duty removable hard drives may even have to be plugged in with a separate power cable before they’ll work.
Next, open the Disk Management tool. To do so, press Windows Key + R, type diskmgmt.msc into the Run dialog, and press Enter.
open-disk-management-tool
You should see your external drive listed in the Disk Management window. Even if it doesn’t appear in your Computer window because it doesn’t contain any partitions, it should show up here.
disk-management-removable-drive
If you do see the drive here, you can continue to the last section where we’ll format it properly so Windows or your other devices can access and recognize it.
If you don’t see the drive here, continue to the next section where we’ll try to determine why your drive isn’t recognized.

Making Windows Recognize the Drive

If Windows doesn’t see your drive at all, it’s possible there’s a hardware issue with your computer’s USB port, a driver problem with your Windwos computer, or you may just have a dead drive.
First, unplug the drive from your USB port and try plugging it into another USB port on your computer. If it works in one USB port but not another, you may have a dead USB port. If you’ve plugged the drive into a USB hub, try connecting it to the computer instead. Some USB hubs won’t provide enough power for your external drive to function.
If the drive doesn’t show up in Disk Management even after you skip the USB hub and connect it to another USB port on your computer, it’s tough to know for certain whether the drive itself is bad or the computer is having a problem. If you have another computer nearby, try plugging the drive in there to check whether it’s detected. If the drive doesn’t work on any computer you plug it into — be sure to check whether it appears in the computer’s Disk Management window — the drive itself is likely dead and will need to be replaced.
If the drive does work on other computers — or you don’t have another computer around to test this with — Windows may be having a driver problem with the drive. You can check for this using the Device Manager.
To open it, press Windows Key + R, type “devmgmt.msc” into the Run dialog, and press Enter.
open-device-manager
Look under Disk drives and check for any devices with a yellow exclamation mark next to them. If you see a yellow exclamation mark, you have a driver problem. Right-click the device with a yellow exclamation mark, select Properties, and look at the error message. This error message can help you fix the problem — you may want to perform a Google search for the error message you find.
device-manager-removable-drives
Such problems can be tricky to fix. If the problem started recently, you may want to run System Restore. You may want to use the Update Driver button to install an updated driver, use the Roll Back Driver button to revert any changes, or use the Uninstall button to uninstall the device from your system and hope that Windows will reinstall the driver and configure it correctly when you reconnect the drive.
usb-device-properties

Partitioning and Formatting the Drive

We can use the Windows Disk Management tool to fix partition and file system issues with the drive. If you see that the drive is unpartitioned and is full of “unallocated space,” you’ll want to create a new partition on it. This will allow Windows and other operating systems to use it.
To do so, right-click inside the unallocated space, select New Simple Volume, and go through the wizard to create a new partition.
create-partition-on-flash-drive[4]
If your drive is partitioned and you still can’t see it, ensure you’ve set a drive letter so you can access it in Windows. This should happen automatically, but if you’ve manually unset the drive letter, the drive may not show up and be accessible in Windows.
To do this, right-click the removable drive’s partition, select Change Drive Letter and Paths, and add a drive letter. For example, add the letter G: and the removable drive will be accessible at drive G:.
give-partition-a-drive-letter
If the drive does appear to be partitioned, it may be partitioned with the wrong file system. For example, you may have formatted the drive with the ext4 file system from Linux or the HFS Plus file system from a Mac. Windows can’t read these file systems. Reformat the drive with the newer NTFS file system or older FAT32 file system so Windows will be able to recognize it.
To reformat a partition, right-click it, select Format, and select your desired file system.
Note that this will erase all the files on your drive, so you’ll want to copy any important files off of it first — for example, if you formatted the drive on a Linux or Mac computer, take it back to a computer running Linux or Mac and copy your important files off of it before continuing.
format-a-partition
If you can’t access the drive from another device, such as a DVD player, smart TV, game console, or media center device, it may be formatted as NTFS. Many devices, even Microsoft’s own Xbox 360, can’t read the Windows NTFS file system. They can only access drives formatted with the older FAT32 file system. To fix this problem, simply reformat the NTFS partition as FAT32. The drive should then be recognized by other devices when you connect it to them.
Note that this process will erase the files on your external drive. Copy the files off the drive to back them up first, if necessary.
format-removable-drive-as-fat32
Following this process should solve most of the disk recognition issues you’ll encounter. If a drive isn’t recognized by any computer you connect it to and never shows up in the Disk Management window, it’s probably dead.
Have you ever had to do any of the things here to fix an unrecognized external drive? Leave a comment and let us know what worked for you!
Image Credit: Vincent Wei on Flickr

One OS, three installation options: What's the best way to install Windows 8?

One OS, three installation options: What's the best way to install Windows 8?


Ahh, Windows 8. If you’ve decided you're ready to plunk down your hard-earned cash to give this modern UI a shot, you'll want to spend a few minutes considering just how you take your first steps into the Windows 8 experience.
You have three ways to install Windows 8 after you’ve purchased it: (a) Run it as a virtual machine on your current operating system; (b) dual-boot it alongside your current operating system; or (c) perform a full install and overwrite the OS you're currently rolling with. While the installation methods vary in complexity, all three are within the grasp of even Windows novices, and each brings its own pros and cons to the table.
Let's take a deeper look at each option.

Running Windows 8 in a virtual machine

One of the easiest ways to play with Windows 8 without having it affect your current operating-system setup is to install it in a virtual machine. While you can get fancy and purchase premium VM software like Parallels Workstation for this purpose, a completely free program called VirtualBox accomplishes the same thing, minus a few bells, whistles, and advanced options.
Installing Windows 8 in VirtualBox.
A virtual machine is exactly what its name suggests. VM software allows you to install and run a virtualized operating system within your existing operating system, and everything you do in that Inception-like second operating system is contained within its own individual environment. Once you're done playing around with your virtualized OS, you can eradicate it with just a few clicks of the mouse—the virtualized OS is really nothing more than a series of files on your normal system’s physical hard drive.
We can’t stress this enough: What you do within your virtualized OS has absolutely no bearing on your actual operating system. Delete files. Change settings. Do whatever you want! Once you’re done tinkering around for the day, all you have to do is shut down your virtualized version of Windows 8 to return to your normal operating system's desktop.
The downsides? First, running a virtualized OS requires more configuration steps than installing Windows 8 directly. For example, most VM software requires you to have a processor that supports hardware virtualization to run Windows 8, and you'll have to make sure that virtualization is enabled within your system’s BIOS. A quick and easy way to check all of this is to download Microsoft’s official Hardware-Assisted Virtualization Tool and run it as an administrator on your PC. If you’re ready to virtualize, the tool will let you know.
Second, you'll need to make sure your that PC's core components are up to the task of virtualization. Not only must the machine fulfill the minimum hardware requirements for Windows 8, it must also be able to handle not one but two concurrently active operating systems. That's right: The virtual machine will use the same physical hardware resources as your normal OS, and because both systems will be running simultaneously, we recommend virtualizing Windows 8 on rigs with hefty system specs to ensure that you have enough resources to dedicate to both operating systems. In an ideal world, you'll allocate at least 3GB of RAM to each OS.
Even with a beefy system, running Windows 8 virtually will likely deliver a slightly less than perfect experience on a standard PC, with occasional graphical lags, performance hiccups, and the frustration of having to move a mouse cursor between operating-system environments if you run the VM in a window rather than in full-screen mode. And Windows 8's Internet connection sometimes glitches out momentarily in VirtualBox.
Our advice? Virtualizing Windows 8 is a great way to get a feel for the OS before you’re ready to commit for good, but it’s no replacement for a full-fledged installation.

Dual-boot Windows 8

Dual-booting Windows 8 alongside your current operating system is an easy process—so don’t be scared if you’ve never done it before. We've already published a guide that can walk you through creating a new, Windows 8-ready partition on your hard drive and starting the installation process itself.
Allocating partitions to prepare for a dual boot installation.
Once the secondary operating system is up and running, you’ll be given a "choose-your-own-adventure"-style screen whenever you boot up your PC, asking you whether you’d like to boot into Windows 8 or the other OS stored on your hard drive. If you don’t pick an option, your system will default to Windows 8 after a brief period of time.
The benefits of dual-booting are obvious: You gain access to two operating systems instead of one, and the performance of neither system is impacted by the other, because each is just a simple, separate partition on your hard drive.
The drawbacks? Once you opt to dual-boot, it can be a real hassle if and when you decide to remove Windows 8, and go back to a single-boot system using your older Windows operating system. Spoiler: You’ll have to poke around in Windows’ Boot Configuration Data Store Editor (bcdedit.exe) just to ensure that you have a means for booting back into your legacy OS after you’ve tossed Windows 8.
In other words, don’t just delete the Windows 8 partition!
You’ll also be sacrificing room on your hard drive to run two operating systems that are completely independent from one another. It almost goes without saying, but installing an app like Steam on Windows 7 doesn’t mean that you’ll be able to run it through Windows 8—they're two separate worlds. You’d have to install Steam on Windows 8 as well, duplicating your efforts on a single drive.
All that said, dual-booting is a tried-and-true process for making the most out of two different operating systems if you absolutely can’t live without each. We recommend the process wholeheartedly unless space is of the utmost concern on your system. And if that’s the case, maybe it’s time for a second hard drive.

Fully installing Windows 8

Here we go. The biggie. You’re ready to take the full plunge and wave goodbye to your legacy operating system forever. Windows 8 has arrived, and it is the conqueror on your desktop. Let no other operating system stand in its path.
Installing Windows 8 is extraordinarily easy and extraordinarily quick. First, though, pay heed to the gentle but firm notice that you get only one shot at this if you’re doing a clean install. Make sure that you’ve backed up all important files from your existing operating system before you wipe it and start anew.
Upgrade or fresh install? Choose wisely, young Padawan.
You'll also need to decide whether you’re going to upgrade from your existing operating system or go with a completely clean installation. In short, an upgrade installation will do its best to preserve your files and settings from one operating system to the next. Just how much of your existing OS experience is preserved depends on what you’re running: When upgrading from Windows 7, Windows 8 will attempt to preserve all your personal files as well as your applications. But if you're upgrading from Vista or XP, Windows 8 will preserve only the files, and you'll have to reinstall your apps afterwards.
The other option is to perform a clean installation, which completely wipes your existing OS and all the files on your hard drive partition, then follows up with a fresh, brand-new installation of Windows 8. Scorched earth.
So which do you pick? The jury is out. More experienced computer users who really enjoy the clean slate of a wipe-and-install—or who are otherwise terrified that they aren’t going to get peak performance from whatever drivers Windows 8 keeps around from Windows 7—should opt for the clean installation. A clean install is also a great way to give your PC a "do-over" to clean out the clutter that accumulates over the years. Indeed, on the second go-around of app installations, you might be less likely to install programs you don’t actually use much.
Otherwise, Microsoft has improved the upgrade process so that it’s not all that scary transferring information over to a new Windows (Windows 8) installation. You’ll still want to go into the nooks and crannies of Windows 8 itself to ensure that all of your major settings have transitioned over. We also recommend that you go straight to the manufacturers’ sites for new drivers for your various system components—video card, sound card, motherboard, and so on.
And, once again, please save your settings before you upgrade. For example, while your preferred Internet browser might make the journey to Windows 8, the operating system might not keep your bookmarks.
I love installing apps, so I love the thrill that a fresh install brings to the table. That being said, we have no official recommendation for which Windows installation process—clean or upgrade—would best work for you. There definitely are trade-offs in either scenario. Now that you know what's on the table, the choice is yours.

Wrap-up

You'll be staring at this screen no matter which method you choose!
And there you have it! If you’re most concerned with having an easy exit and don’t mind trading a bit of performance in the process, then virtualizing Windows 8 is a great way to get familiar with the OS—and tweak it in all sorts of crazy ways—without doing any damage to your existing OS. Dual-booting Windows 8 is a compelling option for mixing the old and the new; you’ll just give up a bit of space to do so. And going the distance with Windows 8 will give you the option to upgrade or start from scratch.
No matter which method you choose, you may want to check out our guide to optimizing your first 30 minutes with Windows 8 to ensure you make the most of your new OS.

Wednesday, 28 August 2013

What is Overclocking? The Absolute Beginner’s Guide to Understanding How Geeks Speed Up Their PCs.


What is Overclocking? The Absolute Beginner’s Guide to Understanding How Geeks Speed Up Their PCs

overclocking
Overclocking is the action of increasing a component’s clock rate, running it at a higher speed than it was designed to run. This is usually applies to the CPU or GPU, but other components can also be overclocked.
Increasing a component’s clock rate causes it to perform more operations per second, but it also produces additional heat. Overclocking can help squeeze more performance out of your components, but they’ll often need additional cooling and care.

What is Overclocking?

Your computer’s CPU comes from the factory set to run at a certain maximum speed. If you run your CPU at that speed with proper cooling, it should perform fine without giving you any problems.
However, you’re often not limited to that CPU speed. You can increase the CPU’s speed by setting a higher clock rate or multiplier in the computer’s BIOS, forcing it to perform more operations per second.
This can speed up your CPU — and therefore speed up your computer if your computer is limited by its CPU — but the CPU will produce additional heat. It may become physically damaged if you don’t provide additional cooling, or it may be unstable and cause your computer to blue-screen or restart.

Can You Overclock?

You may not be able to overclock your CPU. Many motherboards and Intel CPUs ship with locked multipliers, preventing you from tinkering with their values and overclocking your CPU. Intel sells expensive “Extreme Edition” CPUs with unlocked multipliers, targeted at enthusiasts that want to overclock and squeeze every bit of performance out of the CPU.
If you want to build the most powerful gaming PC imaginable with a water-cooling system so you can push its hardware to the limits with overclocking, you’ll need to take this into account when you buy the components and make sure you buy overclock-friendly hardware. If you have a standard CPU, you probably won’t be able to tinker with it much.

Why You Might Want to Overclock

The advantages to overclocking are clear: You get a faster CPU that can perform more operations per second. However, overclocking has become less critical over time — where overclocking once offered a more responsive desktop and faster performance in Microsoft Office, computers have become powerful enough that most users probably won’t even notice the difference. Your computer is likely bottle-necked by other things — perhaps a mechanical hard drive, if you don’t have solid-state storage — so you may not see a noticeable performance difference most of the time.
Gamers or enthusiasts that want their hardware to run as fast as possible may still want to overclock. However, even gamers will find that modern CPUs are so fast and games are so limited by graphics cards that overclocking doesn’t work the magic it used to.

How to Overclock

Every CPU is different, and every motherboard has different BIOS options. It’s not possible to provide a guide for overclocking that will work for everyone. But we’ll try to outline the basics, anyway:
  • Ensure Your System Has Proper Cooling: Your CPU comes with a heat sink and fan from the factory, which are designed to handle the amount of heat produced at the CPU’s standard speed. Speed it up and it will produce more heat. This means that you’ll probably need additional cooling. This can be in the form of an aftermarket heat sink that can dissipate more heat and/or a more powerful CPU fan that can blow the hot air away. You’ll want to have a good amount of free space inside your computer’s case so the air can move around and eventually be blown out by the fan in your computer’s case, which may also need to be upgraded. Air flow is very important for handling heat, as just having a heat sink or CPU fan won’t help if all that hot air stays trapped inside your case.
  • Consider Water-Cooling: Hardcore overclockers may want to use a water-cooling system, which is more expensive. Water-based coolant is pumped through tubes inside of the case, where it absorbs the heat. It’s then pumped out, where the radiator expels the heat into the air outside of the case. Water-cooling is much more efficient than air-cooling.
  • Overclock in the BIOS: You’ll need to go into your computer’s BIOS and increase the CPU clock rate and/or voltage. Increase it by a small amount, then boot your computer. See if the system is stable — run a demanding benchmark like Prime 95 to simulate heavy use and monitor your computer’s temperature to make sure the cooling is good enough. If it’s stable, try increasing it a little bit more and then run another test to ensure the PC is stable. Increase the amount you’re overclocking by bit by bit until it becomes unstable or the heat is too much, then drop back down to a stable level. Overclock little by little to ensure it’s stable, don’t just increase your CPU’s speed by a large amount at once.

The Downsides

When you overclock your CPU, you’re doing something you weren’t supposed to do with it — this will often void your warranty. Your CPU’s heat will increase as you overclock. Without proper cooling — or if you just overclock too much — the CPU chip may become too hot and may become permanently damaged.
This complete hardware failure isn’t as common, but it is common for overclocking to result in an unstable system. The CPU may return incorrect results or become unstable, resulting in system errors and restarts.
If you’re overclocking, you should slowly increase the clock rate and test every new level to make sure it’s stable. You should also monitor the temperature of your CPU and ensure that you have proper cooling. The cooling that came with your CPU probably won’t cut if. If you’re using a laptop without much space for additional air flow, don’t try to overclock — there’s generally just not enough space in a laptop to handle the heat.

Overclocking Resources

If you are interested in overclocking, you’ll want to find information that applies to your specific hardware. The web is full of forums where people discuss their overclocking experiences, like Overclock.net,  and guides for specific CPUs.
Note that even CPUs of the same model aren’t completely identical. One CPU may have more tolerance for overclocking, while another CPU over the same model may not be stable at the same speeds. This all comes down to natural variations in the manufacturing process.

Overclocking can apply to phones, too. There are apps that can overclock a rooted Android smartphone. However, between the additional heat and battery life hit, using these apps is generally not a smart idea.

Technopheniac Explains: How Does BitTorrent Work?


Technopheniac Explains: How Does BitTorrent Work?

bittorrent-swarm
BitTorrent consumes 12% of total Internet traffic in North America and 36% of total traffic in the Asia-Pacific region, according to a 2012 study. It’s so popular that the new “Copyright Alert System” targets BitTorrent traffic alone.
BitTorrent may be popularly known as a method of piracy, but it isn’t just for pirates. It’s a useful, decentralized peer-to-peer protocol with significant advantages over other protocols in many situations.
This article will help you understand how the BitTorrent protocol works and why it’s not just a tool for piracy..

How BitTorrent Works

When you download a web page like this one, your computer connects to the web server and downloads the data directly from that server. Each computer that downloads the data downloads it from the web page’s central server. This is how much of the traffic on the web works.
BitTorrent is a peer-to-peer protocol, which means that the computers in a BitTorrent “swarm” (a group of computers downloading and uploading the same torrent) transfer data between each other without the need for a central server.
Traditionally, a computer joins a BitTorrent swarm by loading a .torrent file into a BitTorrent client. The BitTorrent client contacts a “tracker” specified in the .torrent file. The tracker is a special server that keeps track of the connected computers. The tracker shares their IP addresses with other BitTorrent clients in the swarm, allowing them to connect to each other.
Once connected, a BitTorrent client downloads bits of the files in the torrent in small pieces, downloading all the data it can get. Once the BitTorrent client has some data, it can then begin to upload that data to other BitTorrent clients in the swarm. In this way, everyone downloading a torrent is also uploading the same torrent. This speeds up everyone’s download speed. If 10,000 people are downloading the same file, it doesn’t put a lot of stress on a central server. Instead, each downloader contributes upload bandwidth to other downloaders, ensuring the torrent stays fast.
Importantly, BitTorrent clients never actually download files from the tracker itself. The tracker participates in the torrent only by keeping track of the BitTorrent clients connected to the swarm, not actually by downloading or uploading data.

Leechers and Seeders

Users downloading from a BitTorrent swarm are commonly referred to as “leechers” or “peers”. Users that remain connected to a BitTorrent swarm even after they’ve downloaded the complete file, contributing more of their upload bandwidth so other people can continue to download the file, are referred to as “seeders”. For a torrent to be downloadable, one seeder – who has a complete copy of all the files in the torrent – must initially join the swarm so other users can download the data. If a torrent has no seeders, it won’t be possible to download – no connected user has the complete file.
BitTorrent clients reward other clients who upload, preferring to send data to clients who contribute more upload bandwidth rather than sending data to clients who upload at a very slow speed. This speeds up download times for the swarm as a whole and rewards users who contribute more upload bandwidth.

Torrent Trackers and Trackerless Torrents

In recent times, a decentralized “trackerless” torrent system allows BitTorrent clients to communicate among each other without the need for any central servers. BitTorrent clients use distributed hash table (DHT) technology for this, with each BitTorrent client functioning as a DHT node. When you add a torrent using a “magnet link”, the DHT node contacts nearby nodes and those other nodes contact other nodes until they locate the information about the torrent.
As the DHT protocol specification says, “In effect, each peer becomes a tracker.” This means that BitTorrent clients no longer need a central server managing a swarm. Instead, BitTorrent becomes a fully decentralized peer-to-peer file transfer system.
DHT can also work alongside traditional trackers. For example, a torrent can use both DHT and a traditional tracker, which will provide redundancy in case the tracker fails.

BitTorrent Isn’t Just For Piracy

BitTorrent isn’t synonymous with piracy. Blizzard uses a custom BitTorrent client to distribute updates for its games, including World of Warcraft, StarCraft II, and Diablo 3. This helps speed up downloads for everyone by allowing people to share their upload bandwidth with others, leveraging unused bandwidth towards faster downloads for everyone. Of course, it also saves Blizzard money on their bandwidth bills.
People can use BitTorrent to distribute large files to significant numbers of people without paying for the web hosting bandwidth. A free film, music album, or game could be hosted on BitTorrent, allowing an easy, free method of distribution where the people downloading the file also help distribute it. WikiLeaks distributed data via BitTorrent, taking a significant load off their servers. Linux distributions use BitTorrent to help distribute their ISO disc images.
BitTorrent, Inc. – a company responsible for developing BitTorrent as a protocol, who also purchased and develop the popular µTorrent torrent client – is developing a variety of applications that use the BitTorrent protocol for new things via their BitTorrent Labs project. Labs experiments include a syncing application that securely synchronizes files between several computers by transferring the files directly via BitTorrent, and a BitTorrent Live experiment that uses the BitTorrent protocol to help broadcast live, streaming video, leveraging the power of BitTorrent to stream live video to large numbers of people without the current bandwidth requirements.

BitTorrent may be primarily used for piracy at the moment, as its decentralized and peer-to-peer nature are a direct response to efforts to crack down on Napster and other peer-to-peer networks with central points of failure. However, BitTorrent is a tool with legitimate uses in the present –  and many other potential uses in the future.
Image Credit: Header Image by jacobiancentral server and peer-to-peer network diagrams by Mauro Bieg on Wikipedia

Geek School: Learning Windows 7 – Networking


Geek School: Learning Windows 7 – Networking

Last time we looked at the theory behind IP addresses, subnet masks and name resolution, and we ended the installment with a practical guide on how to change your network settings. This time we take that knowledge and extend it by introducing things like DHCP, Network Locations, Ping and much more.

DHCP

The Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol is used to assign IP addresses to devices on the fly, as opposed to setting the IP address of the device manually like we did in the last article. In fact, you probably use DHCP all the time but just aren’t aware of it, for example when you take your laptop to a coffee shop that has free Wi-Fi. DHCP is useful in many scenarios. Let’s take a look at a few.
  • With the number of mobile devices we use on the rise, we find ourselves constantly needing to connect to different networks. For example, you need to connect your phone to your Wi-Fi at home and to the Wi-Fi at work. Without DHCP we would have to change the IP address on our phone every time we got home, or to work.
  • Large companies can benefit from DHCP. Can you imagine having to go around and set 1500 IP addresses, only to have the Network and Communication team come to inform you that because of a bad design decision you need to change the IP addresses on all those work stations?
DHCP uses a four step process, commonly known as DORA, to assign an IP address.
  • Discover – When you connect a DHCP enabled device to the network, it broadcasts a message to all nodes on the network (technically this is called a DHCPDiscover packet), asking if any one on the network is a DHCP server.
  • Offer – If a DHCP Server receives the DHCPDiscover packet, it looks in its scope (a fancy name for the list of addresses that it is allowed to give to devices) for an available address which it then in turn sends back to the requester in a DHCPOffer packet.
  • Request – When your device receives the DHCPOffer packet it sends a message back to the DHCP server requesting the offered address.
  • Acknowledge – The DHCP server then give your client the go ahead to use the IP address using a DHCPAck packet.
Setting up a DHCP server is beyond the scope of this series, but in order to make sure that your clients are configured to use DHCP, open the properties of your network card and confirm that it is set to obtain an IP address automatically.

APIPA (Automatic Private IP Addressing)

A Windows 7 computer that is configured to use DHCP can automatically assign itself an IP address if a DHCP server is not available. For example, this could occur on a network without a DHCP server or on a network if a DHCP server is temporarily down for maintenance.
The Internet Assigned Numbers Authority has reserved 169.254.0.0-169.254.255.255 for Automatic Private IP Addressing. As a result, APIPA provides an address that is guaranteed not to conflict with any devices on your network.
After the network adapter has been assigned an IP address, the computer can communicate with any other computer that is connected to the same networks and that is also configured for APIPA. When troubleshooting, if a DHCP enabled computer has an APIPA address it is often a sign that it can’t connect to the DHCP server.

Network Locations

The first time that you connect to a network, you must assign it a network location. This allows you to maintain different Firewall profiles and network settings for different networks. For example, you may want to be able to discover devices on your home network but you certainly don’t want to be able to discover devices connected to the Wi-Fi at McDonald’s.
There are four network locations:
  • Home Network – Assign this profile to a network when you know and trust the people and devices on the network. Network discovery is turned on for home networks, which allows you to see other computers and devices on the network and allows other network users to see your computer.
  • Work Network – Assign this profile to small office networks. Network discovery is turned on for Work Networks by default.
  • Public Network – Assign this profile to a network that you might connect to in a public place such as an internet cafe or an airports. Network discovery is turned off by default.
  • Domain Network – This is the only network profile that you can’t assign to a network. It is automatically assigned to you when you join an Active Directory domain.
Below you can see the Windows Firewall with Advanced Security MMC console, which shows you that there is a different Firewall profile for each network location.

Troubleshooting Tools

Most of our time is spent troubleshooting problems on existing network infrastructure rather than setting up new networks. The following are the command line tools you will need to get acquainted with in order to troubleshoot network connectivity effectively.

PING (Packet InterNet Groper)

If there is one tool you need to remember from this troubleshooting section, its PING. The PING utility uses ICMP echo requests to test connectivity between you and another node on the network. The syntax of the command is simply ping followed by the IP address or hostname of the node you want to test connectivity to.
ping 192.168.0.254

Tracert

We use tracert, pronounced trace root, to track network traffic as it traverses the network. It is useful for determining where the point of failure in a network lies. The syntax of the command is is simply tracert followed by the IP address or hostname of the node you want connect to.
tracert google.com

NSLookup

The NSLookup command queries a DNS server for machine name and address information. To use NSLookup type nslookup followed by a host name or IP address.

IPConfig

When used alone, IPConfig tells you basic information about your network interfaces, such as their IP address and subnet mask. However, there are a few hidden gems.
  • Using IPConfig with the /all switch shows you verbose information about your network interfaces.
  • Using IPConfig with the /release switch forces your network card to release its IP address, you would then use IPConfig with the /renew switch to request a new IP from the DHCP server.

NetStat

Netstat is used to view port information on your machine. For example, you can see if there is any application listening on a specific port. Whenever I have had to use NetStat, I have found it useful to use the –ano switch.

Homegroups

One of the cool new features in Windows 7 is the Homegroup feature that allows easy sharing of files between machines. Today we take a look at how to add a new Windows 7 machine to an existing Homegroup. To start using the Homegroup feature we need to create one first. On the the computer that is going to be hosting the Homegroup type homegroupinto the search box in the Start Menu and hit Enter.
In order create a Homegroup, you have to have your Network Location set to Home or you will get an error as shown below.
To change your network location, click on the What is a network location hyperlink and then change your network location to Home.
When the configuration is complete you will be asked what you want to share with other people in the Homegroup. Select what you want to share as needed.
Once the Homegroup has been created you will be given a password. Write this down in a safe place as you will need to enter it on the other machines for them to be able to join your Homegroup.
Now head over to the PC you want to join to the Homegroup and again type Homegroup into the Start Menu. This time click on the Join button.
Then enter the homegroup password.
That’s all there is to it. You now have two computers linked together via a Homegroup. To view member of the group and what they are sharing, open explorer and select Homegroup on the left hand side.

Homework

  • The only void, in terms of network, left to fill is IPv6. So hit up Wikipedia and find out how if differs from the IPv4 information we covered in the last lesson.